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-   -   Getting Started #1 - Tucking Forks (https://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=11587)

Jere 05-20-2014 12:11 PM

Getting Started #1 - Tucking Forks
 
11 Attachment(s)
After reading the post by Richard K (http://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=11469) , and the responses, and not seeing anything done in response I thought I might try to give the beginners, and those who have been lurking the chance to get involved by making some basic tools, made at home, and quite economically. You could make some projects just to get your feet wet with posting progress photos and by getting advice and helping guys at about the same skill level.


This series will be called “ Getting Started” meaning everyone will start at the same place and post pictures as the project moves along. This should allow everyone to see how someone else approached the same project and arrived at the end results.


The first one will be Getting Started #1 – Tucking Forks.


The second will be Getting Started #2 – Beater Bag


The third will be Getting Started #3 - Stump


These tools will not be the last tools you will have and they are not intended to be. They will be made of inexpensive materials and meant only to get you through making the projects that will be presented. You will definitely want to upgrade if you are intending to get more involved with metal shaping.


So with that lets get started on the first project - Tucking Forks


Attachment 27978
You can buy these pry bars at Harbor Freight for less than four dollars a piece, and you couldn't buy the material and grind the taper on them for that much. Cut the tapered portion off about 1/2” past where the taper ends (white line) and then remove the paint. I am making four sets in this set of pictures so don't be confused. You will only need two pry bars to make one set of forks.


Attachment 27979
To remove the sharp edges where the point is I tape the blunt end into a socket and with the appropriate adapter I use my hand drill and belt sander to put a nicely rounded end on both pieces.


Attachment 27980
This is what they will look like after dressing.


Attachment 27981
These are the dimensions you will use for the layout of the two 9/16” holes to be drilled in your plate. I am using 1/2” X 2” X 2” But you can use almost anything you have at hand. I would not suggest anything thinner than 3/8”.


Attachment 27982
First I drill a 1/4” hole as a pilot.


Attachment 27983
Then drill them out to the full 9/16” diameter and deburr. If you use the layout above, the distance between the two holes will be 1/8”.


Attachment 27984
These are all the parts necessary for four sets of forks. I use one inch square tubing for the piece to be held in the vise. You can use anything that is at hand that will suite your needs.


Attachment 27985
Place the two tapered pins in the holes and with a piece of 1/8” material in between clamp the two pins together. When everything is set in place put a small tack on the outside of each pin.


Attachment 27986
Here you can see the small tack I made with my TIG. The only reason for this tack is so they hold their place while turning them up side down to finish welding them.


Attachment 27987
Make a rosette weld on both pins and grind the bottom of the piece flat.


Attachment 27988
After welding the piece that will be held in the vise on the bottom, I spray them with Pam to keep them from rusting.


There is our first project. Please post some pictures of your process. Please give me some feedback so I will know whether this is something that is worthy to pursue.


Jere

Kerry Pinkerton 05-20-2014 12:47 PM

Excellent tutorial Jere and thanks for making the effort. I have created a new forum called tutorials just for this type of thread.

Frank.de.Kleuver 05-20-2014 03:17 PM

Great initiative Jere,

Thanks

Frank

HEATNBEAT 05-20-2014 03:50 PM

Very nice Jere!:D
It's nice to see you had your wheaties this morning :lol:

nonhog 05-20-2014 04:39 PM

I have a HF trip coming up. I'll make some forks and post the results, good, bad or different. lol

rcv4 05-20-2014 05:14 PM

nice thread Jere.

Jere 05-20-2014 06:51 PM

One thing I neglected to mention in the first post is that we are making these first three tools so we can make a hood scoop and a blister.:dunce::p;)

For those who are following along. At some point we will need some 1100, or 3003 X .050 aluminum. Don't be afraid to buy a fair amount because all the projects we will make will be made of that material.

If this sequence has enough participation it will be you who dictates what the next tools and projects will be.:eek:

Jere

foamcar 05-20-2014 08:01 PM

Thanks Jere. Off I go to HF.
Phil

barry grigg 05-20-2014 08:48 PM

Thanks Jere. Little tutorials like this kick start the minds of those who aren't sure where the starting line is. :rolleyes: Mine included. Looking forward the next ones.

Troy Fab 05-20-2014 10:07 PM

I am in! Off to Harbor Freight.

Dave Deyton 05-21-2014 04:19 AM

Good post.
I will have to make some.

Thanks for posting.

Dave

Frank.de.Kleuver 05-21-2014 04:30 AM

Could it be a cobra hoodscoop? :D

I have the dimensions somewhere.

I'll start searching for the materials to make the tucking tool.

Greetings,

Frank

Jere 05-21-2014 10:55 AM

Thanks for the input guys.:p ;) I wasn't sure if this would get any traction.:confused:

Thanks Frank. If you have the drawing of the scoop I would love to get it from you. I have the panel breakdown of the Cobra but there are no dimensions.

After we get a few photos of this project we will get onto the beater bag.:D

Thanks again.

Jere

septimus 05-21-2014 11:39 AM

I'm in too!

I don't have a harbor freight around but I have a lathe. I'll turn some forks up. If I understand it correctly, the biggest diameter of the tapered parts is 1/2 so they can tilt in the 9/16 hole when you clamp the 1/8 piece between. Is that right? Is an overall length of 5" good?

Great way to get people moving!

Richard K 05-21-2014 11:59 AM

Jere, Great tutorial.

We need to remember that new people are always coming on board so these basic things are forever timely.

Stefan, the HF pry bars seem to be tough steel. That's one of the advantages. To make your own try to find good steel. Maybe an automobile tie rod or a long cylinder head bolt.

Frank.de.Kleuver 05-21-2014 12:04 PM

I'll make a fsp and draw up to curves of the plastic scope I have laying around.

This afternoon both my kids were free from school so I took them to my shop. We used some pins we found in a salvage yard.

My son did a lot himself. He even did some welding on it. The bigger holes were drilled by me.

Blending the tips
http://www.allmetalshaping.com/pictu...ictureid=16182

Blended pins ready to be shortened
http://www.allmetalshaping.com/pictu...ictureid=16183

Cutting the base plate
http://www.allmetalshaping.com/pictu...ictureid=16190

Base materials
http://www.allmetalshaping.com/pictu...ictureid=16184

Centerpunching
http://www.allmetalshaping.com/pictu...ictureid=16185

Ready to drill. I did the drilling for safety reasons.
http://www.allmetalshaping.com/pictu...ictureid=16186

All welded up. Bram even did some mig welding. He loved it.
http://www.allmetalshaping.com/pictu...ictureid=16187

First tuck.
http://www.allmetalshaping.com/pictu...ictureid=16188

Works like a charme
http://www.allmetalshaping.com/pictu...ictureid=16189

Thanks for this thread. We'll try to contribute all the way.

Frank and Bram

Jere 05-21-2014 12:17 PM

Stefan: You are correct in that the size of the hole must be large enough to allow the tapered pins to be parallel with the 1/8" spacer between them. Keeping this in mind you can use any diameter parent material you have handy.;) The pins can be any length you wish from 2" to 5 or 6". Like Richard said, use the best material you can get. Mild steel = short pins.:cool:

Thanks Richard K for getting this ball rolling. Always pleased with your input. Any input will be greatly appreciated.:D :p

Jere

Jere 05-21-2014 12:27 PM

Thanks for posting Frank:

That was a great idea to print out my pictures and take them to the shop.

If nothing else comes from this thread it was worth seeing a father and son working together in the shop. GOOD ON YOU.:D :D :D

Tucks look just right. Lets see them hammered out so others can see the finished results.:lol:

Jere

Kerry Pinkerton 05-21-2014 01:20 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Here is a slightly different approach that doesn't require drilling the base.

We take the same HF pry bars, cut off the claw feet and smooth the pointed ends on a belt sander. Try to get them as smooth as possible so they will slid on the metal not grip it. If they grip they will cause the metal to stretch instead of bending.

I don't have any photos of the inprocess building but basically we just stick them inside a piece of 2x2 tubing. In this early version, I was using a short piece. Shortly thereafter, we migrated to a 6" piece and that seemed to work well. We just clamp a piece of 1/8 material between and MIG weld them inside the 2x2. At the top, you'll have a pretty bit gap to plug but MIG is good for filling gaps.

We also weld between them look by my thumb in the photo below. Again, a big gap but it really strengthens them. Much over 4" unsupported and they will bend while in use.

Attachment 28020

We use 2x2 because we make bag stands with a 2x2 socket on them. We have a variety of post dollies and other things that fit in the socket.

Attachment 28021

It's much easier to put one foot on the base of the bag stand (if necessary) and make the tucks.

To my knowledge, my personal contribution to the art of shaping metal was the creation of stand mounted tucking forks. I came up with the idea back in 2001 after trying to get enough leverage on the traditional T handled forks.

Attachment 28022

I've also made them from large punches. They appear to be better steel and have hex shanks and a better taper on them.

Jere 05-21-2014 01:58 PM

Excellent Kerry I was hoping to see variations on the theme.;)

As I stated in the beginning these will probably not be the last pair you will make. More information please!!!

I know Kerry isn't the only one with forks, lets see some more.

Jere


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