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-   -   1949 Cadillac Roadster Build (https://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=14068)

Sprint Relic 12-12-2018 10:36 AM

Jack you might question the "Style" of it, but your execution is always so interesting & professional.

JSark61 12-12-2018 12:43 PM

Jack
with the front mldg wrapping around, it appears to me a little busy. May suggest possibly a tapered trim or possibly incorporating the continuation of the grille bar into the lamp bezel and terminate it before it wraps around the outside of the fender

BTW
love the build and admire your skills!

Jerry

Kevinb71 12-12-2018 12:58 PM

I like the way the extension turned out. You mentioned 20ga steel. Mild steel or stainless? If mild is the trim going to be painted?

Jack 1957 12-12-2018 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSark61 (Post 151527)
...terminate it before it wraps around the outside of the fender.

Jerry

The trim piece is actually a continuation of the body side molding. It looks correct from the side view and needs to be there.

Jack 1957 12-12-2018 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevinb71 (Post 151528)
I like the way the extension turned out. You mentioned 20ga steel. Mild steel or stainless? If mild is the trim going to be painted?

The grill surround is OEM and chromed. I made the extensions from 20ga mild steel and will have to have it replated. The center bar and other trim parts that I'm making from scratch are stainless steel and will just be polished. Same with the front bumper. It's a modified OEM part so it will be replated. The rear bumper will be handmade so I'll make that from stainless.

Jack 1957 12-12-2018 08:11 PM

3 Attachment(s)
I started making the rest of the air cleaner assembly. I need a snorkel that flattens out as it goes over the core support. I started with the top cover. I made it in a shape that resembles the shape of the engine cover.

Attachment 50390

Attachment 50391

Next, I need a 3" round flange that will accept the silicone elbow coming out of the throttle body. I cut a strip of 18ga steel about 2" wide by 9.4 long.
(3"dia x PI = 9.42) After welding that together, I tipped a 1/4" flare on the end that will be welded to the base plate of the snorkel.
BTW The new bead roller is TIGHT. No flexing at all.

Attachment 50392

Jack 1957 12-18-2018 04:16 PM

6 Attachment(s)
I finished welding up the lower valance and got some epoxy primer on it. I needed to install that before I could finish off the grill. When I cut the material for the valance, I also cut enough for these drip rails. They will go on the fenders along the edge for the hood opening. They needed a few bends through the length and the two bends in the middle had to fade out as they went forward. It was easier to do on my friend's sheet metal break. When I clamped down for the two middle bends, I only clamped one side of the break and left the other end open. That's how I got the bends to fade away through the length. I don't want to tear down the front end to weld them in until I finish the grill work.

Attachment 50489

When I made these wrap around trim pieces, I wasn't sure exactly where they would merge with the grill surround because that wasn't finihed at the time. I trimmed them up pretty close but I need to make them curve forward a little to match up with the center bar. You can see the little triangular piece that will be welded to the trim setting on the valance below.

Attachment 50490

Welded up with 306 stainless wire then smoothed out.

Attachment 50491

Attachment 50492

Nice fit. That took me half of a day but it looks good. I'll do the left side next.

Attachment 50493

Attachment 50494

Jack 1957 12-21-2018 10:44 PM

10 Attachment(s)
I finished the left wrap around molding and started on the hood latch support. I"m going to use the original 49 latch. It's simple, in very good condition, and it was cable operated. I'll use the CTS cable and adapt the micro switch from the CTS latch to the 49 latch. The switch is for the hood ajar warning light. The latch bolts to the front closure panel but it needs additional support. The sheet metal panel is not strong enough to hold the hood from fluttering at high speed. I made a support that bolts from two of the hood latch bolts and extends down to the cross bar on the frame. When I finish the grill center bar, I will add another arm from this support going forward and attaching to the grill bar to stabilize it.

Attachment 50545

Attachment 50546

Next, I started making the template for the grill center bar. This is just a footprint of the bar. The templat for the actual bar will be bigger. This template represents the leading edge of the upper surround, matching the shape and location front and rear. The grill will include a wire mesh behind the bars. When I made the lower valance I stepped it down 1" right where the back of the grill bar will be so it can all bolt together. This template will follow the shape of that step.

Attachment 50547

I made a couple cross sections from some scrap by bending them into the shape of the bar The bar is wider in the center than it is on the outboard ends so I made two cross sections. One for the outer ends and one for the center When I had the shape that I wanted and they fit withinn the footprint, I measured them and transfered the measurements to the sheet metal. (24ga 304 stainless). You can see how much larger the grill bar material is than the footprint.

Attachment 50548

Attachment 50549

The area with the X's will be a roll downward. I slit the center in the area that I'm bending because of the angle of the bar. When I start bending the two halves, the material will start closing in toward the center. This is pretty thin material so I just clamped a piece of tubing to the bench and bent the radius in by hand.

Attachment 50550

Attachment 50551

Next I did the first downward bend to make the leading edge in the bead roller. It's a little beyond 90 degrees so I had to finish bending it by hand.
That's about as far as I got. I clamped it down to the bench so I can put a couple small tacks in the center where I cut it. Just to hold the two area I've just done in place while I make the other bends.

Attachment 50552

Attachment 50553

Attachment 50554

Mario428 12-22-2018 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack 1957 (Post 151541)
The trim piece is actually a continuation of the body side molding. It looks correct from the side view and needs to be there.


Over the past months I have read this thread from start to finish and I look forward to your posts Jack.
Like how you post your triumphs and your failures.
I know there is years of practice behind every part you make but the way you talk about how you make the parts and the equipment you use makes me feel I could do it. LOL


Thanks for a great thread and I love the car. Keep up the good work, lot of people enjoying this build.


Merry Christmas Jack

Marc Bourget 12-22-2018 01:15 PM

Jack said: "It's a little beyond 90 degrees so I had to finish bending it by hand."


For the lesser experienced audience . . Jack, recognizing it is thin material, and assuming a leaf brake - have you ever ripped a "wedge" out of wood and placed it between the leaf and material to "massage" the material beyond 90 deg?


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