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Westhewelder 10-06-2018 11:14 AM

Starting with aluminum
 
Hey guys I've been playing around with steel forming 16g and got a big sheet of 16g 6061 from work. Now I have a few questions because I don't have a torch set up.

Is annealing necessary or is it just to make the workability Easier or am I running the risk of work hardening the material to the point of failure.

Also on the topic of annealing I've seen most people use 3000 series aluminum for working with how's 6061 compare as a product for doing forming? I have great ease of access to 6061 that's why I ask.

Ken Hosford 10-06-2018 12:21 PM

Wes
You are starting out wrestling the 800 lb gorilla . 6061 is not considered very workable . Most 6061 I see is T6 and would need annealing to be workable .
6061 typically will crack if bent 90 degrees very tightly .
Even if annealed, it is not very workable , it would be worth the investment to find 3003 .

Westhewelder 10-06-2018 01:46 PM

Ya kinda finding that out been practicing forming with the 6061 and it doesn't seem to want to shrink as much or where I want mechanically or with the tuck method it's at the point where it's like working with steel. No such think as a waste of material though. I'm kind of learning things as I go.

Joe Hartson 10-06-2018 07:48 PM

6061 is a structural alloy and is not designed to be shaped. You also can't annealed like 3003 and 1100 series. If you heat it and then try to bend it you will crack it.

fciron 10-08-2018 08:11 AM

I would build so many awesome tool boxes if I had lots of 6061 sheet. 🙂

Gareth Davies 10-08-2018 09:25 AM

Try some 1050 for messing around with at first, then work your way up the grades.

Kerry Pinkerton 10-08-2018 10:02 AM

Wes, you've gotten some good advise. 6061 isn't really workable. You can bend it once but as far as getting it to stretch and shrink it's just hateful. Do yourself a favor and get some 3003 H14. Otherwise, you might get so frustrated you give up on metal shaping altogether.

crystallographic 10-10-2018 09:18 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Hey guys I've been playing around with steel forming 16g and got a big sheet of 16g 6061 from work. Now I have a few questions because I don't have a torch set up.

Is annealing necessary or is it just to make the workability Easier or am I running the risk of work hardening the material to the point of failure.

Also on the topic of annealing I've seen most people use 3000 series aluminum for working with how's 6061 compare as a product for doing forming? I have great ease of access to 6061 that's why I ask.
__________________
Wes


Hi Wes,
6061 is not that bad once you get used to it, actually.
Yes, you can soften it a bit for 12-18 hours by heating to 650F - black marker burns off - then quench with cold water.
Gas welding is fine - use 5356 filler.
Attachment 49069
Attachment 49070
I've made a lot of fancy aeroplane stuff with 6061 ... and I really like it a LOT.
Attachment 49071

fciron 10-10-2018 10:39 PM

Kent, are you saying that 6061 can be annealed but it will age harden again in 12 to 18 hours?

Just want to be sure I understand you correctly.

crystallographic 10-11-2018 12:26 PM

annealing metal alloys - 6061, done in the field
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by fciron (Post 149639)
Kent, are you saying that 6061 can be annealed but it will age harden again in 12 to 18 hours?

Just want to be sure I understand you correctly.


"Annealing" is a procedure done to soften metals with correct heating to correct temperatures, holding for a correct amount of time, and quenching at a given rate.

Different metal alloys require different annealing procedures, correctly done.


For full anneal, heat-treatable aluminum alloys must be taken to 925F, held to soak completely and then the temp. is lowered 50deg F per hour until 350F is reached, and then the part may be cooled in any fashion. This is how to get a full anneal on alloy 6061, as well as 2024, 2019, 2117, 7075, 6063, 6153, and etc.
Annealing this family of aluminum alloys requires a controlled environment.


"In the field", outside of the controlled environments, the craftsman can only do a "partial, temporary anneal" - which is to take his part to 650F and then quench. And, yes, precipitation hardening takes over and brings the part roughly back to "hard" in 24-36 hours.


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