The 3ph 2hp motor is mounted on a pivot plate with 4 bolts. The plate pivots at the bottom and the top is held to tension the belt with a long adjuster stud, two nuts and washers.
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The rusty patch on the right side of the housing is the skid mark where the machine slid to a stop on the road, after falling from the flat bed truck.
The motor spun fine by hand, so I removed it from the frame and took it to the local elect. motor shop - lucky we have a good one here.
They pulled it apart and cleaned it and then called me up and offered to sell me a new one.
I went back down to their shop and found the bearings, armature and all the working to be very nice so I turned down their kind offer and brought the assembled motor back to my shop and set up to weld the 11 inch crack across the housing.
Cast iron welding can be a head scratcher. Conventional cast iron welding methods are :
Ni-Rod - "Weld an inch and pound an hour." A 99% nickel rod available in stick format for AC or DC electric welding, or in bare rods for TIG welding. No pre-heat needed - BUT it
MUST be peened after roughly each inch of welding, and peened until you can lay your bare hand on the weld.
NiRod welds are NOT machinable.
I once welded a 56inch crack in a chain-driven hay bailer and hired a kid just to peen my welds. I veed the entire length first and then tacked it up, peening as I tacked. Then I would weld an inch and the kid would sit and pound for an hour until it cooled enough and we'd repeat that .... for about two weeks straight. One root pass and two fill passes was what that job took, and that housing went right back on and it all lined up just right.
...... For some reason I never saw that kid again ...
Cast rods and flux for torch welding - The torch will preheat small heads, manifolds and blocks enough for the torch welding process, without extra preheat ... Clean and vee as needed, then heat the rod and dip it into the flux and use the flux-coated rod to weld with. Machinable and good color match.
Can repair valve seats and spark plug holes very nicely.
http://www.tinmantech.com/products/w...g_supplies.php (instructional video on that page, too)
Best material for welding cast iron on the market today - and has been for the 25 + years we have been selling it.
Large casting will need a pre-heat to 650F and then post-heating back to 650F and then a long cool-down.... 24hrs is best.
Special Ni-Rod that needs NO pre-heat and NO peening. MACHINABLE. (Read: unconventional)
I have been using and selling this mystical rod for 25 years. Clean and vee as usual. Tack as usual. Balance the stresses whenever possible, so tack and weld both sides opposite each other whenever possible ... (covered on the dvd, too.) I welded a Toyota 4wd engine back together one time, in the truck, in the snow, and then hand filed the welded pan rail. Cleaned the 22inch weld (welded both sides, so x2), new pan gasket, filled with oil and fired it up. Engine ran fine for another 10 years.
I've welded a number of iron heads, manifolds, blocks and such over the years.
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Adjuster stud.
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This is the rod I used to weld this electric motor with - a fully-assembled electric motor.
I veed the crack and made a root pass and a fill pass. Rough weld, I know, but no cracks and it is a very sound repair.
Motor runs just fine, like new in fact. And - I did not have to re-drill the pivot plate and shim it all to fit a new motor. ....
End of part 4 ....