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Old 12-09-2018, 02:15 PM
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heinke heinke is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Jan 2018
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Prescott, AZ
Posts: 487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vroom View Post
I built a square tube frame just smaller than the outside surface. (rigid and light weight) Then I covered it with 1/4" baltic birch plywood (very stable and stiff)
Then I cut away the inside surface of my 1/4" baltic birch buck stations and glued them to the plywood box using small wood blocks as reenforcement. Finally I coated the whole thing with polyurethane floor finish. This made a light and stable buck for most of my car.

Any highly sculpted area (around the headlights etc.) I ended up building up solid with MDF (1/2" and 1/4" layers) and filing and smoothing with pattern makers filler and coating with epoxy. I bolted this final piece to the steel frame. It only describes the first 8" of my car but weighs more than the rest of my buck.

Good luck. This is my third try and I'm not sure I should not have built it over the chassis.
Tim: thanks for sharing. Do you have pictures you can post? For the solid buck pieces, are you using it as a hammer form?

I ask because my plan right now is to have solid areas on my buck for front and rear grill openings, headlight openings, hood vents, and an indented body line that runs length of the hood. I plan to use these solid areas as hammer forms such that I get accurate, symmetrically placed openings.

I'm having these hammer form areas designed into the buck stations and will have CNC instructions such that they can be formed/shaped on a CNC router.

Why did you go with 1/4" buck stations? Are they stable enough to give you accurate feedback on panel fit?
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