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  #41  
Old 05-31-2009, 08:24 PM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Two more panels welded in this afternoon.



The sharpie line about an inch from the outer edge is about the tip line.

Didn't have time to finish the welds today. Don't think the wife has any mountains for me to knock down tomorrow so hopefully I'll get the rest of the outside done.

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  #42  
Old 06-01-2009, 12:39 AM
carbuilder
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kerry you & I are in the same boat I am a so so welder but better with the tig then the torch. I just cant enough penetration with the torch if I do its on the floor in a puddle. The Art Deco ride is looking great since I saw it in 07 at MM & come a long way's Danny.
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  #43  
Old 06-01-2009, 06:07 AM
David Gardiner David Gardiner is offline
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Kerry, you realy should try welding ally with gas you should find it a lot quicker that using tig. If you set up your torch the way I show on my DVD you should find it very controlable. Be prepared to move a lot quicker though. I know that using a large tip seems like it would make it harder but it realy is the correct way to weld aluminium. If you can weld with tig you can weld with gas its the same technique you just have to move faster. but this meens you get the job done faster. you dont even have to grind the weld if you get good at it. I know that many coachbuilders never gring the weld they just dress it out. (Joe Stafford for example( www.panel-craft.com ).
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Last edited by David Gardiner; 06-01-2009 at 06:27 AM.
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  #44  
Old 06-01-2009, 06:18 AM
David Gardiner David Gardiner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbuilder View Post
kerry you & I are in the same boat I am a so so welder but better with the tig then the torch. I just cant enough penetration with the torch if I do its on the floor in a puddle. The Art Deco ride is looking great since I saw it in 07 at MM & come a long way's Danny.
Danny when you weld with gas dont try to get a lot of penetration, you want the two edges on the back side of the weld to be fused and little or no build up of penetration. use a large tipuse a no 5 for 1.5mm sheet and a no3 for 1.2 mm sheet (16g & 18G respectively) I believe you bought my DVD so you can see what you are aiming for, or you can view it on my youtube video. If you are using the correct size tip and have set up the torch correctly then you are moving too fast. (move too fast - no penetration move too slow- blow holes. Also remember you dont need very much build in the face side either.
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  #45  
Old 06-01-2009, 10:21 AM
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I started a new thread on torch welding steel so we do not hijack Kerry's Art Deco thread Danny.
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  #46  
Old 06-02-2009, 06:13 PM
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Some progress. Got the rear outside part tacked on ...


..and welded. I've nearly back where I was with my TIG. Every time I don't weld for a month or so I have to retrain myself...



Leaving in the morning to spend the rest of the week at Bennett Chapman's. We're going to finish his shrinker/stretcher frames and work on his 47 Chevy Pickup. It's been a while since we saw photos of this truck so I'm taking my camera.
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  #47  
Old 06-02-2009, 07:36 PM
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Nice progress, Kerry.

Your coachbuilding skills are coming along pretty well.

Thanks for keeping us updated as you go.

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  #48  
Old 06-06-2009, 07:38 PM
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Welded in the inner panel...the one that will be tipped for the decklid opening.



Side view



This is the last piece I'm doing on the buck. I'll do some metalfinishing on the buck but the next thing is fender mounts for both sides. The panels on the bottom rear of the fender will be done on the car so I can make sure they match the completed other side. Also the decklid opening will have to be marked and tipped to match the decklid....lots more work but one step at a time.
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Old 06-08-2009, 07:21 PM
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Before I can hang the rear fenders the front fender and door have to be located and trimmed out. I already had the 1x1/4 aluminum piece and I simply welded it to the fender in the correct location...lots of measuring here...



Just in case someone missed it, these are small headed clinch stainless studs that are pressed into the 1/4 aluminum. They go through holes in the A pillar and have nuts and washers that tighten them down and hold the back of the fender VERY securely in place. If I need to adjust the gap, I can weld some aluminum on the edge and file to the desired gap...



That said, the gap came out perfect, 3/16 top to bottom. It looks off a bit but it's just the camera angle.



Here's a longer view of the relationship.



Tomorrow I'll do the same thing on the rear fender then proceed to make permanent fender mounts and ultimately inner fenders.

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  #50  
Old 06-08-2009, 07:39 PM
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Man that is a complex piece.It sure is looking good.That has to be the hardest piece on the car.
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Last edited by jhnarial; 06-08-2009 at 07:43 PM.
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