#11
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Thankyou all very much for your reply's, I get whats going on with the sides now.
Richard, your drawing really nailed it, for me. Kerry, my hood would look quite a bit like yours if I stopped trying to fight the reverse, I see your hood has curve side to side, does it have any curve or shape end to end or is it dead flat? Are there issues with dead flat end to end with regards to getting shallows under the ruler? If I do get a crease in the new panel when bending over a pipe, whats the best way to get it out. When I did the cowl in one piece, I didn't wheel the flat sheet to start and it was quite floppy until both ends were flanged, I expect the hood to be worse being so much bigger, how do you guys normally go about making hoods more rigid. (At the moment my hood is wrong, but it is suprisingly rigid) Cheers Again Jody |
#12
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Dead flat. It's got a double hinge down the middle.
__________________
Kerry Pinkerton |
#13
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One way to add strength to the hood would be to add a belt line to it if possible and a flange on one piece hood tops you will notice an inner structure has been added to help the hood maintain its shape.
Forming the hood by hand will definitely give you the best results as far as being able to control the soft transition in to the radius. I just did a set of rockers for this 60's car the same way. clamping one end down in the brake with a few lay out lines and using my gut and hands formed the rest. |
#14
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What are you working on there, Rex? Now that you have teased us with the photo. The grill opening has a bit of an Aston Martin shape.
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#15
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If you click on the link in his sig you can get the whole story.
There are some AMAZING!!! vehicles on their site. |
#16
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Not to get off topic but the car is the Sorell Manning Special the rest of the car is fiberglass. and the shops website has some more info on it.
these panels were 6" long and a tapered roll to them for me making them by just clamping them in a brake and forming the panels by hand gave the part a nice smooth transition. the top edges was flanged over and the wheel well side has a 3/4" rolled edge that was put in with a hammer a Dollie. |
#17
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Thanks again Guy's, as soon as I've sorted some correct sized pipe I'll give it a go and let you know how I get on.
Cheers Jody |
#18
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Don't forget to post some pics.
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#19
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Ok, I got some time today so heres where I'm up to its getting close to where I want it I used 2 pipes and it went fairly quick I'm please with it so far and suprised its remained quite rigid. I have some questions about next steps, as I am not looking to bin another panel. On the sides which were bent over the pipe I have some really small highs and or flats, I'm not even sure if they will show when its painted, but it probaly will, I figure its a part of bending the panel so if any of you can suggest ways to remedy it and or explain what I did wrong to get it, I would appreciate it greatly. Also once I get the fit just right I had planned on tipping a flat/hem on the front and rear edge. After I have made any adjustments from the tipping I was going to tip an edge on the sides. Is this the correct order for things?
Cheers Jody. |
#20
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Jody Its hard not to get some marks the larger the tube you use the less marks you will get. The front and back edges are normally just a raw edge.
David
__________________
Metalshaping DVD. www.metalshapingzone.com Metalshaping with hand tools on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGElSHzm0q8 All things are possible. |
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