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  #11  
Old 04-19-2010, 08:07 AM
Charley Davidson Charley Davidson is offline
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This thread is absolutely riveting

The bucking bar is usually just a chunk of steel 2X3X6 approximately to be able to grip nicely and hold against back of rivet.

The proper "set" as it's called can usually be purchased where you get your rivets

Last edited by Charley Davidson; 04-19-2010 at 08:11 AM.
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  #12  
Old 04-19-2010, 12:01 PM
ByronR ByronR is offline
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Ian, you might be interested in this book offered by Kent White https://www.tinmantech.com/html/bk_a_crft_shtmtl.php
It covers many (but not all) of the questions you posed. In my opinion, it's well worth the price. I did'nt realize rivets were such a complicated product!
My dad owned a sheet metal shop and this thread reminds me of one of the worst 20 minute episodes of my then young life spent inside of a tank construction, bucking rivets. Can you here me now!

Byron
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  #13  
Old 04-20-2010, 09:03 PM
Sean Sean is offline
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Richard is correct about sheer loads being important in rivet selection but you actually want the rivets to fail not the sheet. So in that sense you would chose rivets and spacing that had a lesser sheer value than the sheet. There are charts in FAA AC43.13 that show exactly how many rivets per inch are required in single lap joints, but that data is a little overkill. They're trying to keep the roof on a 737.

For Ian's purposes I went with data out of Bell Helicopter structural repair manuals, mostly because that is what I work on. On those machines the explanation I gave on rivet selection works pretty well. After all he's not building a bridge.

Aircraft bucking bars typically don't have recesses for rounding the formed end of rivets. Try blacksmith or armoring supplies because quite often the manufactured head is held with the bar and the tail is driven with a hammer in those fields. I have in some circumstances used something like that to form a rounded head on the back of the rivet, it can be done but it is pretty hard to get them really consistent looking.
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  #14  
Old 05-05-2010, 07:27 AM
redoxide redoxide is offline
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many thanks for the information provided.

I got around to ordering up the rivets today using the fomulae provided.

Ask me how much my head hurts working out exactly what i had to order .

Phoned the rivet supplier who was a realy nice helpfull fellow. I gave him my sizes and what I had come up with for my requirements and he agreed with my order in principal, then asked what they were for.

I told him a vintage car body, he asked what era, I told him 1930s and that was it, he was obviously well used to supplying resto companies, He took my measurements converted them all to imperial and adjusted the sizes so that the rivets would have the proper period look, and the reason why manufacturers like Rolls Royce choose a particular size, not just the right size for the job.

Ask me how much my ead hurt after that.

But ask me if I could get any better service from a supplier, I would have to say I doubt it, this chap definately knew his onions, you dont get that kind of service often these days..
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Last edited by redoxide; 05-05-2010 at 07:29 AM.
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  #15  
Old 05-05-2010, 07:36 AM
redoxide redoxide is offline
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Following on from the rivet selection process and calculaion the next question would be, Whats the best process for riveting some of this thin sheet ally.

The chap from the rivet supply co. mentioned using a hardwood block against the rivet and to forget using a metal bucking bar. I may have picked him up wrong and misinterpreted his advice but I think he meant I should use a hard wood block on the shaped head side and pound the raw side...

any ideas on how its done without marring the metal around the rivet ?
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  #16  
Old 05-05-2010, 09:01 AM
steve.murphy steve.murphy is offline
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Ian if you search aicraft riveting on youtube, there are several to watch how riveting is done.
Cheers,
Steve
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  #17  
Old 05-05-2010, 01:43 PM
abarthdave abarthdave is offline
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Are there double sided round head Rivets ?

or a way to make the inside look finished ?

I read somewhere of a "rivet shaver" , anyone have one ?
and does it shave the front of the rivet or the back hammered over piece ?

I would like to rivet some aluminum panels and both sides will be seen.

thanks for your ideas

Dave
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  #18  
Old 05-05-2010, 02:32 PM
steve.murphy steve.murphy is offline
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Dave,
You could buck a rivet into a round head shape. You would need to make a bucking bar with the shaped recess that you will form the bucked tail into. or you could probaly weld a rivet set for that size rivet to a bucking bar.
You would need to experiment some to dtermine how much rivet shank it would take to make the round head
Those rivet shavers are for countersunk rivets. You shave the top so it stays flush with the skin for less drag. You dont neccesarily need one if you take care with countersinking or dimpling the skin for a flush rivet.

This shop has them all: http://www.yardstore.com/

Steve
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  #19  
Old 05-05-2010, 02:44 PM
Gitzit Gitzit is offline
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Dave rivet shavers are used on flush rivets to get the top of the head even with the top of the sheet. Normally the flush head is on the outside of the part and the inside will have a normal driven shank. Often when driving a flush head rivet there may be a little mismatch in it's height and this is what a shaver is used for. The shaver has an adjustable stop to set the depth of cut and if set right it will even up the rivet and top of the sheet.


You can make a double flush rivet if you counter sink or dimple both sides and then drive the rivet so the bucked tail is in that hole, however it will not look all that nice. For aircraft work this would not be considered normal practice as they would want a standard driven tail on the back side. The place you do see this on aircraft is in areas that are covered by another sheet and clearance is the issue. If you do try doing some double flush riveting I recommend you use soft non heat-treated rivets.

Neil
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  #20  
Old 05-10-2010, 06:59 PM
redoxide redoxide is offline
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sorry no pics somethong to do with D drive ?? any way forget the computer stuff, I want to say thank you to all who offered advice regarding the riveting. From the advice recieved I managed to buy the proper size rivets and secure the parts together with great results, nobody more surpried than me.

Thanks again.. will post pics when I can get them loaded..
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