#11
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Axel,
I had not realized you had already stretched the flange. Glad to hear you say take time to stop and think. Every move one makes in altering a panel may or can affect the panel at almost any location. Good luck. Keep us posted on you progress or problems. We all learn from these discussions.
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Richard K |
#12
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I also have found out things go much faster and get much better if you do them a second time... ;-)
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Axel Kloehn |
#13
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Jumping in the deep end
Quote:
John.
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John Woolley Metal is like playdough and my shop is the fun factory,not that I'm any good! |
#14
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Thanks John
I saw your build too and must admit you are on an amazing learning train, best of luck to you too!
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Axel Kloehn |
#15
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Axle, I think you are asking the wrong question. Look at the problem in a differrent way. What is goint to happen to the panel once you have managed to form the radius? when you have formed it all and you weld all the way round the bulge?. I think it is reasonable to say that you are going to get a lot of distortion in the very flat boot (trunk) panel.
My advice to you is to make the panel in a completely different way. Wheel the panel in two halves as you did before but don't cut the center out of it instead mark half your bulge in each half of the panel and using a stump or/and a sandbag (shotbag to our American friends) hollow out the half the shape of the bulge into each half of the panel. this way you will only have one weld to make which will also be in a high crown area and therefor will not distort. You will have to make allowances for the extra metal needed for the bulge so leave a couple of inches extra on the each half panel until it is fully made and welded. Its not as simple as I made it sound and you will have to stretch exactly the right amount of material as you form the bulge and also contain the deformation inside the perimeter of your bulge. You can use the wheel to smooth the bulge once you have each half formed. Some hand finishing will be needed. Use your old panels to practice with perhaps. David
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Metalshaping DVD. www.metalshapingzone.com Metalshaping with hand tools on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGElSHzm0q8 All things are possible. |
#16
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Axel,
If you decide to continue with your first panels, you can shrink the flange by simply "tuck" shrinking it with a tucking fork. Search YouTube for "tuck shrinking". Try this before using a mechanical shrinker/stretcher. Good luck. I'm really enjoying your build "bild"s. : )
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Bill Longyard Winston-Salem, NC |
#17
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Quote:
Yes, I did use a home-built tucking fork already, and it worked! But the panel had so much distortion at the horizontal area already, that I decided to make a new one! It just took me one hour and it really turned out!
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Axel Kloehn |
#18
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Quote:
The original idea was doing the bulge in metal and use a gfk stitchmatte to glue it on the fiberglass bonnet...but than I got into metalshaping and bought the english wheel, and suddenly decided to try everything in metal... So the bulge already existed and the other panels I shaped around it! Well, there is a lot to learn and I thank you guys for taking your time and helping me!
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Axel Kloehn |
#19
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No problem Axle. I have been making panels for around thirty five years and I still don't always come up with the best way to form a given panel on the first attempt.
The hoop part is double skinned, that's going to be fun!. David
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Metalshaping DVD. www.metalshapingzone.com Metalshaping with hand tools on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGElSHzm0q8 All things are possible. |
#20
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I have heard about that reverse-curve-thing, and it scares me ;-)
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Axel Kloehn |
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