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  #41  
Old 03-15-2017, 05:57 AM
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A few more hours was spent getting the light opening to match the new, unbroken light, we welded up some of the screw holes that had torn, and given some of the structural members in the way of the roof, we had to settle for no oil canning and a slight low that needed filler.. The owner was more concerned about leaks than having the roof top that no one can see returned to perfect. Here's some of our implements of correction






Last night we finished up sanding the roof repair on the bus, and started to get things covered up for primer.. Being the lighter of us two, guess who got roof duties for rolling out the shark grip?



This is starting to look like a hazmat incident...





Tonight we'll get some SPI epoxy on the bare spots and filler



The sheet metal on the front cap seems a bit thin for it's purpose, so rather than trust the new light to clip nuts again, a surround ring is made from 14 gauge cold rolled steel to make an anchor plate. The Vise-jigsaw is used to cut out the center...







note throttle control...



Using transfer punches, mounting holes from light are marked onto the ring and drilled to 17/64 to accommodate 8-32 rivet nuts...









It was also media blasted to prep it for the epoxy primer session for this evening.
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  #42  
Old 03-15-2017, 05:18 PM
galooph galooph is offline
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Hehe, the vice-jigsaw makes me chuckle every time

I'd not considered it before, but masking up buses must be expensive!
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  #43  
Old 03-15-2017, 05:45 PM
longyard longyard is offline
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Lots of good info and techniques. Thanks for posting them Robert.
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  #44  
Old 03-16-2017, 04:41 AM
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Thanks for sharing Robert and liked seeing which tools you used.
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  #45  
Old 03-16-2017, 05:23 AM
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Looking good Robert.
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  #46  
Old 03-20-2017, 05:52 AM
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Thanks for the comments guys.. Yeah Dan, that jig saw arrangement is a bit sketchy....but functional. Must respect the blade. The plastic is Shark Skin, a 16' x 350' roll is around $50.


All ready to spray...



Here's the SPI epoxy sprayed on the repair area...



as well as on our bolting plate we fabricated. This will be riveted behind the panel using stainless pop rivets..



First coat of BASF Urethane, and a shot of the scaffolding setup used...



Final coat...



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiYA19ELpj8

Unmasked, we'll let this set a bit and get it re-assembled on Tuesday night.

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Last edited by MP&C; 03-20-2017 at 05:57 AM.
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  #47  
Old 03-20-2017, 06:20 AM
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Good job of it Robert.
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  #48  
Old 03-21-2017, 07:00 AM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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Good to see the process.

Still, it's almost less difficult for me to imagine doing it start to finish than to have an indoor space that is both big enough for a school bus with three perpendicular sections of scaffolding AND empty at the same time.... Adequate clear space is so important for doing good work and certainly makes the craftsman look more professional. Very impressive.
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  #49  
Old 03-21-2017, 07:14 AM
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Thanks for the comments.. Clint, that work was done in the bus owners shop. Since my shop is too small for buses, typically we do smaller removable parts in my paint booth and assemble at his place or my driveway, depending on weather. No removing this time, so made the mess at his place....

My scaffolding, his 10' walk boards
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Old 03-21-2017, 08:02 AM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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Wondered if it might be the bus garage, given the tall ceiling and rolling stairs or your dedicated space for the maintenance contract.

All I know is that when I have that much space here it's either inside, outside or some combination of the two depending upon where I pile stuff.... That's the big plus about the weather down here. And my few pieces of scaffolding have been set up near the tree house and tire swing as a jungle gym for the kids. We added a slide.

Seriously, offsite work is a whole different animal. Still impressive to watch.
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