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  #521  
Old 11-01-2018, 04:57 PM
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123pugsy 123pugsy is offline
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Outboard for sure. Looks like a couple of lumps stuck there in the valleys. Sorry.
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  #522  
Old 11-01-2018, 10:45 PM
fred26t fred26t is offline
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Default I remember that..my mind is not gone!

Keep on keeping on! Go Kerry! Can't wait. Fred26
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  #523  
Old 11-01-2018, 11:10 PM
gootee08 gootee08 is offline
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just my 2 cents I like option 1. Glad to see the project moving forward!! All of it is looking great.
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  #524  
Old 11-02-2018, 12:45 AM
ozcad ozcad is offline
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I think that option two of having the lights inboard helps accentuate the unique shapes of the rear end. Just my opinion.
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  #525  
Old 11-02-2018, 04:35 AM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Both highlight different areas and think either would work well depending on what look you are after. I personally might do the outboard ones purely from the standpoint of practicality of keeping the water out of the light and safety point of view. We have laws here that also govern how far in from the sides they are allowed to be for safety sake.
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  #526  
Old 11-02-2018, 08:59 AM
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I like outboard better!
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  #527  
Old 11-02-2018, 09:13 AM
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Outboard. Have you considered making something like the 55 - 60 Corvette tail lights? They would not interrupt your body lines.
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  #528  
Old 11-02-2018, 10:17 PM
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I'm on board for the outboard look.
When i started my first car build I was watching the build of your car. Now on my second car...........still watching you, hurry up! Ray
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  #529  
Old 11-16-2018, 06:00 PM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Ok, Outboard it is. Holes cut and stuck in place. Need to tweek the metal around it for a more flush fit but I'm not going for 100% yet.

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I've been thinking about the license plate holder for months. I don't like any of the solutions that look good...not that any license plate looks good.

Since I have to have a light on the plate, I purchased a couple of those license plate lights that have been around forever. I'm just going to cut a hole as close as I can get it to the profile of the back of the car, and create an inset that is deep enough that I can put the lights in it where they won't be visible unless someone gets on the ground. The exhaust tips will come out just below the plate.

Also have the decklid gaps pretty close. Dang, this crap is hard. At least for me.

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I was going to make the panels below the doors that tie the front and rear fenders together but realized I need to cut some aluminum and didn't want to fire up the compressor. My shear is air powered.

So while I was thinking about that I decided to reach a decision about the side vent. Some months back we had a nice discussion of what could be done. Mark Savory did a photoshop that looked great and also suggested I could just mock things up with duct tape...so I did. The first photo is Mark's photoshop.



This is my mockup. Basically, I'll add pieces to split the current opening into 3. Behind that, I'll add some stainless woven mesh...about 1/4" opening and a 1/16" wire. I actually have some left over from a custom grill I made for my GMC motorhome but, sadly, don't have quite enough. The interior of the scoop could also be a different color for contrast.

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I could also put stainless trim over the vertical lines just to make them stand out. I still haven't ordered any stainless trim pieces and need to do that so I can get my head around any side trim. That decision, however, can be made after the car is in primer and road legal. I still intend to drive it in primer a while.


A question for the paint guys. I've talked about how the rear fenders are seamed in the middle with screws and nutcerts which will be covered by a piece of stainless. The fenders have studs that go through holes in the interior structure behind the doors. Washers and bolts hold them in place. The back of will be bolted to the structure at the very back/bottom.


My question is this. If I did away with the seam and welded the whole back together in one piece, I could still remove the back as a unit IF I CAN SPRING the body about 3/4". How flexible is the paint. I'm thinking not flexible enough but I know something can be added for plastic bumpers. Is this doable or a really bad idea?????


Finally, I'm getting pretty close to finishing all the major shaping. I have a rotisserie (Auto Twirler) that I traded an Imperial 26F for about 10 years ago. I'm thinking I'll pull the drivetrain so I can put it on the rotisserie and work the body the last 5%. I got great big pneumatic casters so I can roll it around or even put it on my trailer and take it somewhere if necessary.



The Corvette C4 has a vent that will leak differential fluid when I turn it upside down. I'll either have to plug the vent or pull the differential. Suggestions.
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  #530  
Old 11-17-2018, 03:59 AM
cvairwerks cvairwerks is offline
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Kerry: On paint, select a system that is in use on something that flexes a lot.
A couple to look at are JetGlo and Ranthane from the aircraft world.

On the 'Vette rear end, remote the vent is the easy way to take care of it. Make a hard line to the new top of the unit and cap it with a solid cap with a couple of tiny breather holds drilled into it.
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