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  #1021  
Old 10-15-2018, 07:55 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I woke up this morning with a feeling that I ALMOST figured this fender liner out. I went out to the garage and stared at nothing for about an hour and was getting nowhere. I also needed to take the last A/C fitting out to a friend to have him TIG weld a switch port into it for me. Below, on the left is the original. The new one is on the right. They make these with ports already installed but not in the position that I needed. The weld is perfect. Kudos to those that can TIG anything, anywhere, any time and make it look like it was done on a machine.
While I was driving back home I was thinking about forming the liners and it came to me. (That's how I ran myself over last May, not paying attention.)


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I'll use radiant heat. I'll make a down and dirty buck. One shot, then into the burn pile with it. The frame below will provide some rigidity while I'm fighting with the ABS. I'll make the rest out of layers of 2" foam insulation board. The last panel or two on the inboard side, where it gets wider to meet the frame, will be removable so I can move it to the other side to make the liner for the right side.
I have a carbon fiber welding blanket that I'll lay over the buck to insulate the foam from the hot ABS. Then, over the top of the ABS I'll cut a piece of an old bed sheet (NOT the one off the bed, or I'll be sleeping on the couch with a sheet that has a 6 foot round hole in it). Lay the sheet over the top of the soft ABS and use a bunch of bunjy cords in various directions, hooked to the perimeter of the sheet and down to the base of the buck. If it starts to cool down too soon, I can move the heaters to heat it while I'm tying down. If I get the cords in the right position, they'll apply even pressure all the way around. It should work.... Maybe.

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I ordered 2 of these off of fleaBay today. Double quartz bulbs, 1500 watts, 27 inches wide. Two of them should heat the whole panel evenly. I'll still make the liners in two pieces, though.

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Last edited by Jack 1957; 10-15-2018 at 08:27 PM.
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  #1022  
Old 10-15-2018, 11:33 PM
ScooterCO ScooterCO is offline
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I am thinking that we will need to see video of this.... please.
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  #1023  
Old 10-17-2018, 12:14 AM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I picked up some low density 2" foam board. This stuff is crap to work with but costs half what high density foam costs. It's a throw away so it only needs to work twice. I made a template of the inside contour of the fender liner right down the center of where the tire will be. I am measuring from the center outward because a lot of this will be symmetrical and can be used as is on both sides of the car.

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Look closely at this blade. It's made to cut plastics and it zips through this foam as quick, clean and easy as drawing the line with a Sharpy. I don't know the science behind it but I think it cuts in both directions without heating up the plastic and melting it. I've had this blade for years to cut plexiglass lenses, lexan windshields, etc. The only problem with what I'm doing now is that the blade isn't long enough to cut through the 2" foam, so I still had to use a knife to finish the cuts.

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There are seven layers here. They are glued together with contact cement permanently. The center of these panels will be right down the center of the tire. I will build on the inboard and outboard sides to match the shape of the fender and framework but I won't glue them down as well as I did with these. I'll need to remove them and swap them side for side to make the right side liner.

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  #1024  
Old 10-17-2018, 06:52 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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There are a few different ways to smooth out foam. I'm not going to use a hot wire but I'll show you that anyway. I put two pieces of welding filler rod into a soldering gun and strung some .023 MIG wire between the two. Pull the trigger and the wire gets hot enough to cut. The benefit to this method is that it's very clean. No dust at all. BUT, although you can get pretty good result, you'll still need to sand to smooth the form out. Also it's somewhat slower than full attack mode with a grinder.

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Here's a picture of some cuts made by hot wire. Notice there are no snow drifts left behind.

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My preferred arsenal for this size job consists of a razor knife, hack saw blade, mud rasp, and a grinder.

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I have smoothed out the 7 center layers that are permanent. Then I cut out the removable inboard and outboard parts.

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I cut out and glued the removable parts and smoothed them out. After I finish making the left liner, I'll take these off and make new ones for the opposite side. Much easier than making two complete forms.
I've reconsidered using a sheet to draw the ABS down. I wouldn't be able to reheat if I have to. I think what I'll do instead is use strips of fiberglass screen about 8" wide. If the ABS starts cooling before I get it fully laid down, I can reheat with a heat gun in areas that need it. The screen might print the ABS but I'm not too worried about that. You can't see any of the liner from above.

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  #1025  
Old 10-18-2018, 09:08 AM
billfunk29 billfunk29 is offline
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Awesome project Jack. I have learned a lot. Thanks for taking to time to post all the details. When I rough out a surfboard, I use a cheap power planer. It is fast and pretty accurate, but the dust goes everywhere.
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  #1026  
Old 10-18-2018, 08:00 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I found an all cotton towel that will do the job of insulating the foam from heat.

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I also made some tie down bands from fiberglass screen, so I have everything I need to start on these liners except the heaters. Looks like they're still a few days out so I started making the engine closure panels. I did the flanges with a heat gun with the panels clamped to the work bench. The ABS bends easily and cools pretty quickly.

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They fit pretty well. I'll do a trim on them then start welding in mounting tabs next.

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Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can.

Last edited by Jack 1957; 10-21-2018 at 01:24 AM.
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  #1027  
Old 10-19-2018, 08:48 AM
jpony645 jpony645 is offline
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I always get excited whenever I see you've updated this thread, Jack. This is the most amazing and detailed custom build I've ever seen. It's even more awesome because you're doing it by yourself in a home shop. It far surpasses most of the "custom builds" you see on tv.
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