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  #411  
Old 09-25-2016, 04:59 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Originally Posted by JimRussell View Post
Hi Jack,

There appears to be a locking screw on the lower anvil mount of your wheel. What does it do? I see you are using your offset rollers on your bead roller. Do you get the tip started this way and finish with hammer and dolly?

The lower anvil stem is round stock with a keyway cut through the length, that set screw and lock nut is to keep the anvil in alignment.
I use a tipping wheel to do the first pass because it makes a sharper line. Then I use flat dies to finish the bend. When you have a small flange, the tipping die tends to leave the flange wavy. The flat dies leave a flat surface. It just ends up being a little less work.
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  #412  
Old 09-28-2016, 06:09 PM
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I spent the last couple evenings getting a better fit and smoothing out the crowns so they're the same where the panels meet each other. it's a lot of repetitive work and checking fit. Nothing really noteworthy but I got the two panels tacked together and after it's welded the remaining work will have to be done by hand. The skin is now too large to go into the machines.

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  #413  
Old 09-29-2016, 08:27 AM
custommetal custommetal is offline
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Jack, really enjoy your work and thanx for taking the time to post. I always have trouble transferring an opening onto a sheet. Can you explain your technique for using tape to transfer the opening. Curved edges such as the top section of the deck lid are even more problematic.

Thanx George
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  #414  
Old 09-29-2016, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by custommetal View Post
J ...I always have trouble transferring an opening onto a sheet. Can you explain your technique for using tape to transfer the opening. Curved edges such as the top section of the deck lid are even more problematic.

Thanx George

Easier to show you.

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  #415  
Old 09-30-2016, 08:44 PM
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I flipped the skin over to check the weld and clean it up and was not satisfied with it. There was full penetration in most of it but about 30% of the weld had not fully penetrated or was intermittent or spotty so I rewelded from the back side and ground it smooth.

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Next I started hand planishing and smoothing the panel out. Right now I'm adjusting the crown so it involves a lot of moving from the work stand to the buck and fitting to the car. It takes time but it's coming in

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  #416  
Old 10-01-2016, 09:01 AM
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Thanx for the explaination of fitting the edge. Now that I look at it, it's the same technique used to trim floor tiles to a wall. Never thought of that.

George
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  #417  
Old 10-01-2016, 10:00 AM
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George, don't forget that whatever you enter for gap has to include room for filler, primer, and paint!
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  #418  
Old 10-01-2016, 12:16 PM
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I spent some time getting a couple low spots raised and cleaning up welds this morning. Then I cleaned and prepped the underside and brushed a thin line of rust converter over the welds. This panel has been sitting in humidity for a while and the rust converter is just a little insurance against problems popping up later. After that I put a coat of epoxy primer on the underside and I'll have to let that set for a day or so. In the meantime I need to get a set of adjustable stops mounted on the deck lid frame so it sets evenly every time.

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  #419  
Old 10-01-2016, 08:54 PM
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I took care of a few details I want done before skinning the deck lid. I wanted adjustable stops on all four corners so I got them installed. I had to install the rear stops into the rear gutter because there won't be much room between the skin and the frame in back. They are O-ringed so they won't leak.

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I also needed to make the rear gutter support bracket. The striker for the deck lid will mount to the front face so I made the bracket in two pieces and the front faces will overlap so it will be double thickness where the striker bolts on. I'll weld it up tomorrow.

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  #420  
Old 10-08-2016, 05:01 PM
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I finished up the rear panel support and installed that before going on to the deck lid. I set up the deck lid frame and skin one more time to check fit and shape and it looks good.

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I forgot to bring my skinning hammer home from work so I just used a body hammer. The skinning hammer is faster and easier to work with but not absolutely necessary. I started knocking down the hems about 15 degrees at a time and went around it 4 times to flatten it out. 18 ga is tough stuff. The skin is tight now but it can still shift. I want to check it on the car before I weld it to the frame

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I left the rear edge of the skin unfinished because it's going to be tricky to fit against the rear body panel so I want to finish that on the car. I probably could have done a better job designing that.

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