1973 Opel Kadett B coupe

[Hobie]

David, working on your car is one big learning experience. Be aware that by the looks of some of the steel on your car it may have become "work hardened" and brittle. You want to be sure to get rid of this type of metal, it will just come back to bite you later. Also at the stage you are in as far as welding skills go, i don't think I'd be so quick to grind the weld off flush, because you're not getting deep enough penetration to be leaving the strength behind. In theory a good butt weld should look the same on both sides. This can be accomplished by "filling the key hole" turn the heat of your welder up, (with a mig welder)to where if you welded an inch it would be hot enough to blow a hole through at the end of your pass-that should put you close to a good penetration weld. Now stitch weld the pieces together waiting for the point where the red just starts to go away,then hit the trigger again and so on until the weld is complete. I hope this helps you, its kind of hard to explain. Here is a video and keep in mind the pipe thats being welded is rotating, and of course the weld is perfect because its not sheet metal. Best of luck, keep us updated.

[Jinx]

Thanks for the heads up!

Originally Posted by Hobie

David, working on your car is one big learning experience. Be aware that by the looks of some of the steel on your car it may have become "work hardened" and brittle. You want to be sure to get rid of this type of metal, it will just come back to bite you later.

Can you explain this a little more? How do you spot this type of metal?

Originally Posted by Hobie

Also at the stage you are in as far as welding skills go, i don't think I'd be so quick to grind the weld off flush, because you're not getting deep enough penetration to be leaving the strength behind. In theory a good butt weld should look the same on both sides. This can be accomplished by "filling the key hole" turn the heat of your welder up, (with a mig welder)to where if you welded an inch it would be hot enough to blow a hole through at the end of your pass-that should put you close to a good penetration weld. Now stitch weld the pieces together waiting for the point where the red just starts to go away,then hit the trigger again and so on until the weld is complete. I hope this helps you, its kind of hard to explain.

That is how i used to weld. It resulted in a lot of weld build up and LOTS of grinding. Now i weld much hotter, penetration is about the same. On the other hand, i doubt i will use this technique on structural parts. They will be stitchwelded for control and strength. Am i completely wrong on this or ...?

Originally Posted by Hobie

Here is a video and keep in mind the pipe thats being welded is rotating, and of course the weld is perfect because its not sheet metal. Best of luck, keep us updated.

I think you forgot the link

[Hobie]

Sorry I was at work and had a quick second to get on here and rushed. Here's the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eN4VNkHKcUYThe brittle metal is usally found when you see that it has cracked, not torn, and it will break off in pieces instead of tearing.

[Jinx]

Originally Posted by Hobie

Sorry I was at work and had a quick second to get on here and rushed. Here's the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eN4VNkHKcUY
The brittle metal is usally found when you see that it has cracked, not torn, and it will break off in pieces instead of tearing.

As far as i know i haven't seen any cracks yet. But my untrained eye might have missed some. Are there already cracks the things i've finished or is it i should just have an eye out for?

[Jinx]

started on the driver side inner sill.

Front of the footwell was very rusty and i didn't have a replacement panel for it so made my own.

Not terribly complicated but good practice. I did notice that i really want a proper way to cut sheet metal instead of the angle grinder. i'm thinking along something like this: (its cheap, about 35 euro locally )

(its a different brand though)



on to the pictures (no in progress pics, i'm sorry )







Welding was ok, but had some spots where it didn't penetrate fully so welded it up on the other side.

This is where it's going. I'm not quite sure what to do with the chassisbeam... first choice is to see how much of it is left after i get all the rust sanded down. If i don't have the choice... a new piece will be welded in.

[ClassicRestorations]

You're getting there

Interessted in a new pneumatic metal shear? was about 35-40euro i think.

Are you coming to the meet sunday?

[Jinx]

do you mean something like this:



Is there a meet on sunday?

[ClassicRestorations]

Yes, its that.

Look at http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=3259

[Jinx]

i have the tendency to stay off air tools at the moment...
the garage is small as it is, even without the compressor in it. and it makes a HELL of a noise. Which is something to be considered when working around about 50 neighbors (the garage is across an apartment building)

the electric version of those... any clue how much they go for?

[RatRockx]

Here's the thread on the meeting next sunday in Rotterdam: http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=3259
Let me know if you're interrested.