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  #11  
Old 08-10-2012, 06:17 PM
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I made the hammer from some left over steel from a job that I did for the local outdoor bowls club, its 3"x2"x1/8 mild steel.

I had a offcut and made the frame to the length that I had, I figured that longer welds mean more strength, so thats why its that shape, I also drilled holes on the inside of the welded sections so I can fill the thing with sand from the top and top it up as it settles down as it bounces around the floor.

The anvil took some doing with a 7" grinder but came out pretty good.
the web was 16mm (5/8") and it took around 2 hours of cutting, grinding and sanding
all the paint in the shop is a coloured, zinc based spray paint to stop rust and make things look good

cheers
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  #12  
Old 08-21-2012, 10:16 PM
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Finished my assignments for the week (Engineering statics) and thought id get a couple hours of practice in the shed...

started off with a scrap piece of 0.8mm m/s, chucked a couple of folds in it and welded (Tig, 30a, 0.8 filler wire) another piece of 0.8mm m/s to the side of it...
IMG_0354.jpg
IMG_0353.jpg

then proceeded to hammer it back flat, sand it a bit, take out the high spots with the pick hammer and dolly, then sand it a bit more...(excuse the blowen edge, I didnt use runoff tags)
IMG_0356.jpg
IMG_0355.jpg


How far do you guys usually go with your metal finishes ??
and how "flat" is flat enough?
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  #13  
Old 08-22-2012, 07:33 AM
Custom Metalshapers Ltd Custom Metalshapers Ltd is offline
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Hi Alex,

internal sections like floors or kick panels and so on you would choose join areas that were easy to planish and hammer up so they were nice. after underseal new butt welded repair sections should be hard to detect from under the car.

exterior panels especially low crown panels need alot of practice to get right. as you learn welding and hammering on and off dolly I would try and get some lessons on hot shrinking. all those skills need to progress together to a good level before youll have success finishing a nice repair. another big part is training your brain to figure out what is high and what is low. translating how the panel feels and the working out what the remedy is- shrinking or stretching. best thing you can do is watch you mates father hammer up a job and get a running dialogue of what hes doing.

doesnt really answer your question about you flat test piece perhaps but the challenge is in the low crown panel for the beginner.
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  #14  
Old 08-25-2012, 11:44 AM
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What is the diameter of the rollers on the slip roller you got? Most of the 12" ones I have seen are only rated for 22ga, and a few rated for 20ga.
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  #15  
Old 08-26-2012, 01:38 AM
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The rolls are rated to 1.2mm mild steel and are 30mm in diameter. I have rolled 1.6 mm alloy in it down to 40mm dia with ease.

They are "Quantum", made in Germany. the rolls are hardened and cylindrically ground, with greasable brass bushes at each end and the top roll comes out for the tight stuff.

really neat set of rolls, reasonably cheap and they also do a 300 wide 1.2 hand folder also

cheers
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  #16  
Old 02-04-2013, 03:20 AM
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Hi Guys

Got these done, CNC machined by a local shop for a good rate.
IMG_0592.jpg

IMG_0593.jpg
I'm starting to build an imperial style wheel, inspired after all these great builds on this site, but am still acquiring parts and material to do the job, in the mean time and itching to destroy some steel, I built this out of second hand bearings and some flat bar and a G clamp.

IMG_0638.jpg
IMG_0640.jpg

It actually works and managed to seriously deform some 1.5mm (16ga) stainless sheet.

cheers
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  #17  
Old 02-08-2013, 08:08 PM
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A mate of mine asked if I could have a go at fixing a door off his ute that he's doing up, he's got spares so it wont matter if I stuff it up
2013-02-08 12.30.05.jpg
2013-02-08 12.46.06.jpg
2013-02-09 13.55.26.jpg
2013-02-09 13.56.39.jpg
2013-02-09 13.56.59.jpg

I've used the "G" wheel above to run some shape into the patch pannell and put a fold along the edge, when I cut the rusty bit out I've found more rust and had to make a patch along the lower edge of the door.
the new steel is 0.8mm and the old must be 0.6 or thinner as 25A on my scratch start tig is a bit much to tack it back together.

Ill trim the fold down and hammer it over once its all tacked up

cheers
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  #18  
Old 02-08-2013, 09:19 PM
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THanks for the pics.

Here is a little tip for you on the patch panel. That 90 degree corner is going to be the difficult spot when you go to weld it in.. If you radius the corners in the center of a panel it will be much easier to work the warpage back out of the panel after it is welded in. Try making putting a 1" radius on that corner next time and I bet you'll find it much easier to smooth back out.
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  #19  
Old 02-08-2013, 09:24 PM
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looks fun. one quick note. that sharp corner will really pull the metal there. it might hollow out an area around that corner. a nice gentle curve helps.

I would like to know how old of metal this door is? being that your welding in a patch that is thicker then the surrounding metal it might try to pull the factory metal on you. any experiences you have with this is helpful for future references.
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  #20  
Old 02-08-2013, 10:22 PM
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thanks for the tips, its all a learning curve at the moment.
the 0.8 is the thinnest I've got.

I suppose I could cut another patch and lengthen the hole in the door by an inch or so?? and put the radius in that, may as well do it right the first time

The door is off a 70's mazda ute (I think) but is still in good nick. there's also a stepped radius on the lower corner opposite to the door hinges.

we will see how it goes
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