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Old 02-15-2011, 11:49 PM
Pixelhead Pixelhead is offline
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Default Hi from the open road

This is my first post on this forum. I'm only posting because one of your members seems to be a bus nut.

I'd love to find out what kind of a shop could reproduce the following type of stainless:





Here's what it looks like overall:


Most people seem to be used to making very flat piece of stainless with a very small fluting as shown below:


I'm not looking for anything like that. I instead want to know who can reproduce a scalloped stainless siding that is made of "C"'s connected to "C"'s instead of flat with a bump. The results I'm looking for would not have any flat areas in the surface... all curves and ridges.

Here are some dimensions:
Overall height: 13", Vertical space between ribs: 2 9/16", Height of ribs versus valleys: 3/8", Total depth from bus to top of ribs: 5/16"
I'm not certain what the overall length would need to be. The bus is 34' long and this does not extend the full length of the vehicle. I'm assuming it might end up being about 30' long and will be broken in two spots near the rear to accommodate the engine/baggage door and on one side near the front for the front door.

I'd also like it to be made from a satin-finish stainless... here's an example that shows that quality:


Please let me know if you have any idea what kind of shop can re-create this type of stainless.

-Ben

Last edited by Pixelhead; 02-16-2011 at 03:39 PM. Reason: added a few more photos and some measurements
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  #2  
Old 02-16-2011, 12:50 PM
Pixelhead Pixelhead is offline
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Default Hi from the open road

Hi,

I just found your site the other day and was very happy to find a group into metal shaping.

I'm restoring a 1963 Flxible Starliner bus (creativecruiser.com for details and pics) and am researching details about some stainless steel accent panels that I'd like to have reproduced.

I don't do the hands-on work since I'm better behind the camera or keyboard than with hammer or tool in hand, but I really appreciate what can be done by a skilled craftsmen.

I live in a bus and travel all the time (whereisben.com for my travel-log). I'm a photographer (thebestofben.com for examples), spend my time giving seminars on Photoshop and exploring the country.
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1963 Flxible Starliner
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vintage bus restoration: www.creativecruiser.com
photography: www.thebestofben.com
blog: www.whereisben.com
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Old 02-16-2011, 12:58 PM
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Joe Hartson Joe Hartson is offline
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Ben welcome to AllmetalShaping. Thanks for the introduction. There are several members here that are working on buses. Thanks for joining us.
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Old 02-16-2011, 01:48 PM
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HEATNBEAT HEATNBEAT is offline
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Welcome Ben!
That part could be made on a pullmax machine.
depends on your location. I'm in central Ca.
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Old 02-16-2011, 02:13 PM
bobadame bobadame is offline
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Ben, what is the length and height of the panels on your '63?
This could also be done in a bead roller with a urethane lower doing one or 2 flutes per pass. There is a joggle top and bottom about 1/2" high with a flange about an inch or 2 wide to slip under the adjacent sheet metal. I believe the gauge is about 22 or 20. At each end of the trim there is an area that is at right angles to the fluted area. I think the originals were pressed in a die. I would probably weld those pieces in. Most of the panels on my '48 are in good shape. I might replace one short section. How soon will you need these?
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Old 02-16-2011, 03:53 PM
Pixelhead Pixelhead is offline
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Default more details

Thanks guys!

My vintage bus is located in Victorville, CA, which is just over an hour from Los Angeles. It will most likely be transported to Dallas, TX for some additional work and then it will go all the way to Nova Scotia to have the interior done. So, anyplace along that route would be fine to get the stainless made.

The bus doesn't currently have any accent stainless on the sides, so it doesn't have to exactly match anything... although I really like the look of ones with the following dimensions:
Overall height: 13", Vertical space between ribs: 2 9/16", Height of ribs versus valleys: 3/8", Total depth from bus to top of ribs: 5/16"
I'm not certain what the overall length would need to be.

The bus is 34' long and this does not extend the full length of the vehicle. I'm assuming it might end up being about 30' long and will be broken in two spots near the rear to accommodate the engine/baggage door and on one side near the front for the front door.

Do you see a problem with maintaining a satin finish if the 90° sides are welded on, since I'm assuming grinding/polishing is what would usually be done to clean up the welds. I would rather not have a mirror finish.

Here's what the bus looks like right now:


Note: I also edited my original post to include a few additional photos.
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1963 Flxible Starliner
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vintage bus restoration: www.creativecruiser.com
photography: www.thebestofben.com
blog: www.whereisben.com
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Old 02-16-2011, 04:21 PM
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Ben, the satin finish actually make the panel easier to make. The finish can be accomplish with scotch brite material rubbed over the panel. It will also make maintenance of the trim easier.

You can weld the end pieces on but you could also form them with the proper dies. The biggest problem with making these panel is the length. Whoever make them will probably have to work with a coil product because it will be hard to find flat sheet over 10 feet long. The other problem will be with shearing the sheet that long.

The original pieces were probably made in a roll former feed off of a roll of stainless steel. It formed the entire shape all at one time except for the ends. The end were done with special dies or by hand. My guess is that there is also a lip that is turned under along the length of the strip and maybe on the ends also. How are you going to attach it to the bus?
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Old 02-16-2011, 05:33 PM
Pixelhead Pixelhead is offline
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I don't know what would be the best method for attaching the stainless to the bus. I don't mind the screws that are shown in the pics and I'm assuming something like that can be used to attach them via existing frame members. I have to think about preventing water from getting behind them and draining any that might sneak in since the body is steel.

I'm not a mechanical, hands-on kind of guy... I mainly take photos, play on the computer and write. Wish I had the hands-on skills/knowledge, but have to rely on others for it. That's why I don't really know about attachment methods.
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1963 Flxible Starliner
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vintage bus restoration: www.creativecruiser.com
photography: www.thebestofben.com
blog: www.whereisben.com
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Old 02-16-2011, 06:42 PM
bobadame bobadame is offline
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The originals were riveted in place, under a short piece above the trim and a longer skin below that extended down as a single plane curve. I think these were installed in sections about 6' long. The early Clippers had narrow trim through about 1951. Some of the later Visicoach and Starliner models had much wider trim. And some of the last ones had no trim. So, since what you want do isn't stock, you could stylize it any way you choose. I am partial to the narrow, early style. There are other nice trim pieces in these buses. The trim pieces at the bottom of the seats and along the arm rests are beautiful flowing pieces done in the same style but curved.
I'll take a look at mine on my way home this evening to see what it would take to do this.
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:24 AM
Pixelhead Pixelhead is offline
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Bob, did you ever get a chance to look at your Flxible. If it's a clipper, then it should have the exact style that I'm looking to have reproduced. I also like the small strip much better than the later versions.

If you feel like it, check out the WHAT page on www.creativecruiser.com for a lot more about the various Flxible models.
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1963 Flxible Starliner
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photography: www.thebestofben.com
blog: www.whereisben.com
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