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  #1  
Old 04-15-2012, 12:31 PM
Ken Hopperdietzel Ken Hopperdietzel is offline
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Default Bead Roller

I need advice on a good qaulity bead roller. I do not need a very big one. Looking for easy set up, and to make many pieces. Thank-you for any help. Please let me know model number and brand name. I have attached a pic of the parts I need to make,

Ken

Bead Roller.jpg
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:06 PM
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HEATNBEAT HEATNBEAT is offline
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What gage material ?
It looks like just about any BR should work with the right die.
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:27 PM
Ken Hopperdietzel Ken Hopperdietzel is offline
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18 gauge, The harbor freight model I do have. Its not very good qaulity. The roller bars move from side when you make the bead. Its seams that it takes too much time to set up. I thought I would buy a better one.
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Old 04-15-2012, 03:22 PM
60 convert 60 convert is offline
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Default bead roller

you can spend a bunch of money on a good bead roller or look through the site and see ho other people have strengthened the hf bead roller
Jesse
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Old 04-15-2012, 03:58 PM
barry larson barry larson is offline
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How many is lots ? 100 500..... i would make a hamer form out of plate..looks like youn have a couple holes to bolt the plates together............hamer form the sides.....then if you cut a pair of slots in the plates like the beads you could tack a 1/2 rod to a plate and push the bead into the part.......easy way to do a big run and have them look a like..... make a pattren and plasma cut all parts along withe the holes so they are the same..Barry
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:24 PM
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Joe Hartson Joe Hartson is offline
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Ken, here is a link to a recent thread on how to update and straighten a HF bead roller. http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=5806
If you have the capability to copy what he did you will have a bead roller that will do almost anything you want it to do with the right dies. It is the only one that I have seen that has a movable shaft that will give you a lot more versatility.

There are other ways to straighten a HF unit but none better in my opinion.

If you insist on buying one look at Mitler Brother, Lazze, Pexto and there are others.
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:24 PM
Ken Hopperdietzel Ken Hopperdietzel is offline
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Default Bead Roller

Hi Joe,
I saw the HF bead roller design idea by Mike. I want to convert mine over like his. However I need more detailed plans so I can do it right. I saw the he had dims. of the heavy steel but what about the other pieces.

Thanks for the help
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:40 PM
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Ken, there is nothing special about the dimensions. Mike used the shaft, gears and bearing blocks for the HF unit. He designed the machine around those parts using the materials he had in the shop.

The only thing that is not clear in the pictures is what the plates at the back end of the machine at the gears are for. The gears wouldn't fit inside the tubing he had so he cut out part of the tubing and welded the plates on to get the clearance for the gears. The other part are two shaft collars, two "T nut" and some knobs on threaded shafts that he made. Make the stand any way you want to suit your need. Nothing magic about what he did, just a very good design.
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:45 PM
Ken Hopperdietzel Ken Hopperdietzel is offline
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Thanks for the reply, Do you know what all the knobs do in the pics and how he made the wheel. I want to convert mine this week.

Ken
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:59 PM
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The parts are laid out with the parts they work with. There is a knob at each of the "T nut", one on each side. They lock the upper shaft in position after the dies are aligned. The "T nut" fit in a slot cut in the plate and the other end of the nut fits between the two shaft collars. This controls the upper shaft movement in and out. The knob on the front by the dies put pressure on the upper bearing block and pushed against the spring pressure that tries to pull the upper shaft and die up to separate the dies. The other knob locks the guide in place. Just make the guide to fit the lower tube you use.

The knob are probably pieces of pipe with a piece of flat bar welded across the top and the shoulder bolt welded to the flat bar.
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