#1
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tig welding copper and brass
is it possible and if so what type of rod is used to tig brass and/or copper? not sure if I can or do I need to stick to brazing and whats the best procedure for that? thanks
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Audie |
#2
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I have done brass on some radiators, was a pain, and honestly, I forgot what I used. Parent material, most likely.
Copper, I use Romex. Yup, bare bright house wiring works awesome. Thin strips of parent material work awesome as well. Marty
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Results = (Effort X Determination2) + Time |
#3
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Gene Olsen (copper artist extraordinaire) recommended De-Oxidized copper tig wire for the copper boots I'm eventually going to make for Monique.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#4
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Hi, Brass can be tig welded nicely with silicone bronze rods.
It takes some heat to start but then it welds without problem. Hope this helps. |
#5
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Copper is fairly easy to tig weld, and if you are using alloy 101 or 110 you can use de-ox Cu filler, and some sculptors use plain old electrical wire. Be real sure to clean it all to bright, filler and material, before welding. SS brush and 91% isopropyl are very good, cheap, available, and non-toxic.
Brass is another critter, entirely. I've wrestled with "color-matching brass filler" to work up polished radiator shells and it is not pleasant because the zinc in the brass "fumes" out, and makes a smoky mess. Unless you have a critical color match requirement on a polished part, I'd recommend that you use silicon (not silica and not silicone) bronze, AKA "Everdur" for your tig welds. It lays down nicely because it has zero zinc. Clean as you would when tigging copper. Try AC to start with, medium cup, sharp tung. You don't say what your application is so any recommendation will be imprecise.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#6
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Hey, I just tried Tigging copper, and used House wire, Amazing, didn't think that would work.
What causes the Turquoise blue flare though.....? It plays with the Auto Darkening helmet.
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John EK Holden V8 |
#7
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That would be the copper itself wouldnt it?
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Paul... or Harry |
#8
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I don't actually pay attention to colors much because I do not see them very well, which might be odd because of that green welding lens I developed during the 1980's that eliminates sodium orange flaring using a green filter ...
Flaring is usually caused by some impurity in the welding process - or by the metal itself, as Harry72 points out.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#9
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So if welding metals of this nature, should you just use a fixed lens helmet other than the Auto Darkening type.
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John EK Holden V8 |
#10
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Quote:
But I do not think color accuracy for welding, brazing and soldering is that important - and the various lenses filter color to some degree and they all filter somewhat differently. For glass blowing, however, seeing the color is helpful so hot glassworkers are particular about accurate color vision in some parts of the spectrum, depending of course on the glass type - pyrex, flint, quartz, etc in use.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
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