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  #1031  
Old 11-06-2018, 09:16 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I had to set the front bumper up again temporarily so I could fit the front of the fender liners to the lower lip.

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I salvaged the front pert of the CTS liners because they are fitted with brake cooling ducts. I'll cement these to the new liners. I've added extensions to the front edge of them that fit the contour of the 49 front bumper. (It's actually from a 56 but going on the 49)

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Next, I laid the template for the upper portion of the liner on a sheet of ABS and cut it out textured side will be facing down.

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Before I start stuffing this liner into the car, I wanted to add a detail. I wanted a Cadillac wreath and crest emblem embossed in the lower rear corner. I made a quicky set of dies from pressed wood. I printed out two copies of the emblem and glued them to the two pieces of wood. On one, I cut out the crest and wreath. On the other I cut out the background. I didn't have a chunk of piano hinge around so I just used a couple wood screws to align them. I placed the raised emblem under the panel and heated up the area with a heat gun. When it was pliable I quickly laid the other half over the top and pressed down by hand. Hold it in place for a minute and it's done. There are two mounting tabs at the lower edges that needed to be warmed up and bent to 90 degrees. They will mount to the inner rocker and the side of the frame rail. This will probably never be spotted once the car is done but I know it's there.

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Last edited by Jack 1957; 11-06-2018 at 10:57 PM.
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  #1032  
Old 11-06-2018, 10:27 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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This ABS sheet is too thin to weld with hot air or iron type plastic welders so I'm going to use ABS cement. There are two types of adhesives out there. There's glue and cement. They are very different things. Cement actually melts the substrate and allows the material to flow into the other panel. It actually creates a chemical weld. The solvents then disperse and the two pieces are now one. Glue, on the other hand, does not change the state of the substrate. It relies completely on its ability to adhere to it. It can bond dissimilar materials and provide different types of bonds like a firm, rigid bond that doesn't flex. Or a bond that cures but stays pliable, or a bond that relies on the glue being able to seep into the pores of the substrate and form a sort of web of glue that penetrates the substrate before it dries. Think wood glues. There are all types of bonds that glues can make depending on what they are designed to be used on.
I have always used a process that includes Oatey's ABS Cement. The only thing in this can is MEK, Acetone, and ABS resin. The part number is #30999. I say process because there's more to this than just shlopping on some cement.

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The first step is to wipe down only the areas to be bonded with some Acetone on a paper towel. Move fairly quickly and don't hang around in one place too long. The Acetone starts melting the ABS on contact. You can see in the picture below that I have wiped down about 1 inch wide along the left edge. That black that you see on the paper towel is not dirt, it's the ABS that melted while wiping the part down.

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This is the important step. If I were to just go ahead and cement the parts together, I would be at the mercy of weather conditions. If the Acetone in the cement evaporated before it penetrated the ABS there would be an inferior bond and from the outside there would be no way to know until the bond fails.
To eliminate the possibility of a poor bond, I make a primer that is very similar to the composition of the cement except thinner. I put about an ounce of Acetone in a stainless container then throw a chunk of scrap ABS into it. Let it go for a few minutes and take a screw driver or something and start busting up the ABS into smaller pieces. Stir the whole mess and let it go for a few more minutes. I'm after a consistency about midway between water and the ABS cement. I don't want it thin enough to run right off the part, but not so thick that it might flash off before it penetrates. If the ABS pieces are fully dissolved and the slurry is too thin, just add another piece of ABS and start the process again. You might ask why I don't just thin down the ABS cement. Two reasons come to mind. First, the more Acetone you add, the faster the slurry will evaporate. The slurry will have a shelf life measured in minutes rather than months. The second reason is that I know that this works and I can't say that about over reduced ABS cement.

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I stuffed the top of the liner in and brushed on some primer, then a few "tacks" of cement. I need to tack this with it installed in the car so everything fits correctly. It is difficult to get pics in there but I'll try tomorrow.
One more thing I forgot to mention. Do not force dry this cement. You would be defeating the whole purpose of using this method. You want to give the cement as much time as possible to melt the ABS.

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Last edited by Jack 1957; 11-06-2018 at 11:09 PM.
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  #1033  
Old 11-12-2018, 09:57 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I found some time to get back on the project. I finished up the left fender liner and installed it. Where the side panels meet the top panel, there was only a butt weld. These tubs take a lot of torture and if they fail at high speed, it can get ugly fast. I decided to cement a reinforcement strip of ABS along the seem and rivet it on. Overkill but I don't have to worry about it later. I started making the panels for the right side. Same process, same templates just flipped over. This one will go much faster since I know what to do now.

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  #1034  
Old 11-12-2018, 10:06 PM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Jack, I'm not clear on something. Are the main panels a butt joint with the cement? I see the reinforcement and pop rivets.
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  #1035  
Old 11-12-2018, 11:18 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton View Post
Jack, I'm not clear on something. Are the main panels a butt joint with the cement? I see the reinforcement and pop rivets.
Yes, they are cemented edge to edge like a butt weld on sheet metal. Then a 2" strip of ABS was lapped over the seam and cemented and riveted. It's very strong and holds its shape.
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  #1036  
Old 11-13-2018, 06:17 AM
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Nice touch with the "factory" logo.
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  #1037  
Old 11-13-2018, 09:10 AM
Kidpaint Kidpaint is offline
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I donít post often anymore but I swear I learn something new from you every time you post, and not always metal related. Which Iím glad you post every aspect not just the metal work considering itís a metal forum. Thanks for taking the time to post such detailed post and photos.
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  #1038  
Old 11-14-2018, 11:17 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I started tacking the right side panels together while mounted in the car. I found that I had to move the fuse box back a couple inches to make room for these monster tubs. Everything fits well now.

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I forgot to mention that I finished my new bead roller last week. It has about 8 or 9 inches of reach and you can see in the picture below that I installed needle bearings in the front pillow blocks.

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I cut some 2" wide strips of ABS for the reinforcements then ran them through the bead roller to bend them while warming them up with a heat gun.

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next, I predrilled and temporarily installed them to make sure they fit tight. Then I took them off and prepped and cemented them in place and followed with spreading rivets. This one is done. I'll stuff it in the car tomorrow. I already spent way too much time on these.

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Last edited by Jack 1957; 11-14-2018 at 11:26 PM.
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  #1039  
Old 11-15-2018, 09:15 AM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Hi Jack
The wheel tubs turned out well!

Thanks for sharing!

Steve
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  #1040  
Old 11-17-2018, 08:33 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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This is the washer bottle for a 2006 Jetta. I use them often. You can get them for about $25 on fleaBay. You can mount them anywhere you need to since they have a remote filler nozzle. Very compact, about 10 x 12 x 3 with a sturdy 4 bolt mounting flange. The hose that comes with it might work for you but in this case, I replaced it with about a foot of 1 inch dia surgical hose. The fitting on the tank inlet and the filler are 1 inch barbed so just mount the tank and filler tube where you want them and slip the hose on. Simple. The tank accepts most GM pumps and sensors and probably a lot of others. I mounted the tank low on the right side near the firewall.

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With that done, I could install the right fender liner so that's not laying around any more. Same routine as the left side.

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Next I finished off the radiator. The CTS cooling system uses a surge tank. There is no need for a radiator cap but I couldn't find a performance aluminum radiator without a cap. No big deal, I just plugged the overflow tube fitting and installed a return line fitting on the tank just below the cap. The hose from there will go back to the surge tank. I also mounted two 8" pulling fans, one near the inlet hose and one near the outlet hose. The CTS system uses two fan speeds and the resistor needs to be kept cool while operating at low speed. The resistors are in that black plastic box mounted on the upper fan. With that done I mounted the radiator in the car.

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Moving on, I need to get the fuel tank finished off. The CTS has an elaborate pump and sensor system that goes into the tank. On the CTS, the tank was partially divided by a drive shaft tunnel. On the right side is the pump and level sensor. On the left is a fuel level sensor and fuel pick up. A tube connects the two so the pump can siphon fuel from both sides. I couldn't use the CTS tank so I got an 18 gallon tank from a 68 Camaro since it was a good fit between my frame rails. Since I now have an unobstructed fuel tank, the two pickup system is redundant but it would require some reprogramming in the ECM to eliminate the pickup and sensor module. I decided to put them both in since they are designed to work together and reprogramming would require testing the system to determine which sensor does what. By the time I'm at the point where I start testing electrical systems, I'm sure I won't want to drop this tanks back out and start looking for problems.
Sooo, I cut the holes for the two units and started flattening the ribs in the area where the flanges will need to seal with the palm nailer from inside. I cut some rings that I'll drill and tap. These will go inside the tank. The big O ring goes on the outside of the tank, then the pump goes in and the flange on top of the pump assy rests on the O ring. I modified the original CTS retainer ring and I'll drill that to match the bolt locations on the lower ring.

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Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can.

Last edited by Jack 1957; 11-17-2018 at 09:02 PM.
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