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radius gauge?
after finishing up as much as I'm willing on my practice tank I feel the need to have radius gauges. Is there a cheap one out there or is it easier to just make my own? It seems pretty simple to make my own but if there's a $19.99 one with a bunch of sizes I'd question whether or not it's worth the time to make them. Just wondering cause I don't see them online. I feel they are an important tool missing for this tank and would like to implement them into my next tank.
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Henry |
#2
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I think Ben still sells that great set: http://allmetalshaping.com/showthrea...t=radius+gauge
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Johnny Arial This forum is dedicated to Metal Shaping. Please stay on topic. |
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Henry:
If you have shrinker/stretcher you can make them specific to your needs. Jere
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Jere Kirkpatrick Valley Forge & Welding HEN-ROB Torch Dealer. Teaching The Fundamentals of Metal Shaping www.jerekirkpatrick.com All tools are a hammer except the chisel.....That's a screwdriver. |
#6
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As Jere says you can make up profile gauges as you need them for a project with a shrinker stretcher.
To Do so: Shear or cut with snips a strip of sheet metal about 3/4 to 1 inch wide. This can be 20 or 22 ga or thicker. What ever is ok, use scrap. Then just shrink or stretch one edge to pull the strip into a curve of the desired radius. These work nice because almost always you will not be working with a constant or single radius. The cross section of your gas tank is likely squarish with rounded corners. Probably a bigger radius up top than on the bottom edge. with the strip you can make a "profile gauge" of the entire half cross section of the tank. Or make three; front middle and rear. Then make another profile gauge of the top view. Looking down at the widest point. You now have a sort of outside buck that will be very helpful. It will also help yo make the tank symmetrical or both sides match. You could also cut the above profile gauges from some cardboard or plastic and be going at this with zero investment. The cardboard will work just as well. The adjustable profile gauge mentioned by 123Pugsy works well too. It is a good tool to copy shapes onto a solid profile gauge. Build your skills working with ideas rather than gadgets. You will be a good mealshaper a lot sooner working with your hands and developing ideas. Cass Nawrocki was speaking at Dan's Route 56 Meet this weekend. He is probably one of the premier metalshapers in this country. He said again and again to concentrate on developing ideas and understanding of concepts rather than tricks. Tricks apply only to certain situations and are easily forgotten, Ideas and concepts apply throughout the shaping process and will become a part of your skill set. Good shaping and keep practicing.
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Richard K Last edited by Richard K; 05-04-2014 at 08:42 PM. |
#7
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To Richard's post I would also add that by making your own gauges you will also quickly learn about shrinking / stretching and accuracy.
I usually use a strip about 5/8" wide (do not travel beyond the strips center) and a shrinker/stretcher but you can also just hammer one side to get the metal to bend the way you want. On some out of shop jobs I don't always have access to a shear so I usually keep 20 +- 3ft strips under the tool box so I do not have to make them every time. Good way to burn up some scrap rather than put it directly in the steel recycle bin as well. Jay
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Jay |
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As to what we (Richard, Jay and I) are talking about.
Several years ago I made a replica of the Kurtis that A. J. Foyt won the 1960 and 61 Turkey Night Midget Grand Prix at Ascot. This is how I was able to exactly reproduce the tail section while gauging only off one side. Image067.jpg First lay out a grid using mainly cut lines and center of radii. Using numbers and letters for each grid line ( I use letters for vertical and numbers for horizontal). Image068.jpg Image069.jpg Image070.jpg Before starting to shape, place tick marks on your material in direct relation to the grid you have laid out on the buck. Image071.jpg Using your shrinker and stretcher use the strips we were talking about to follow the tape exactly. As was mentioned you can use any thickness that is at hand. I use mainly 18ga because that's what I use a lot. The two longer pieces you see at the top are out of 16ga so they don’t flop around while holding with one hand. At each of my classes I have the students make at least one of these so that they might FEEL how much difference it makes how far you insert the piece into the jaws. Image072.jpg I always keep a supply of these handy. I just had a class in two weeks ago so I guess I better make a new batch of them. Jere
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Jere Kirkpatrick Valley Forge & Welding HEN-ROB Torch Dealer. Teaching The Fundamentals of Metal Shaping www.jerekirkpatrick.com All tools are a hammer except the chisel.....That's a screwdriver. |
#9
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cool. I'll do that then, thanks!
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Henry |
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