#1031
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Jack, I'm not clear on something. Are the main panels a butt joint with the cement? I see the reinforcement and pop rivets.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#1032
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Yes, they are cemented edge to edge like a butt weld on sheet metal. Then a 2" strip of ABS was lapped over the seam and cemented and riveted. It's very strong and holds its shape.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#1033
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Nice touch with the "factory" logo.
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#1034
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I don’t post often anymore but I swear I learn something new from you every time you post, and not always metal related. Which I’m glad you post every aspect not just the metal work considering it’s a metal forum. Thanks for taking the time to post such detailed post and photos.
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Cody Lunning |
#1035
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I started tacking the right side panels together while mounted in the car. I found that I had to move the fuse box back a couple inches to make room for these monster tubs. Everything fits well now.
I forgot to mention that I finished my new bead roller last week. It has about 8 or 9 inches of reach and you can see in the picture below that I installed needle bearings in the front pillow blocks. I cut some 2" wide strips of ABS for the reinforcements then ran them through the bead roller to bend them while warming them up with a heat gun. next, I predrilled and temporarily installed them to make sure they fit tight. Then I took them off and prepped and cemented them in place and followed with spreading rivets. This one is done. I'll stuff it in the car tomorrow. I already spent way too much time on these.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. Last edited by Jack 1957; 11-14-2018 at 11:26 PM. |
#1036
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Hi Jack
The wheel tubs turned out well! Thanks for sharing! Steve
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping |
#1037
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This is the washer bottle for a 2006 Jetta. I use them often. You can get them for about $25 on fleaBay. You can mount them anywhere you need to since they have a remote filler nozzle. Very compact, about 10 x 12 x 3 with a sturdy 4 bolt mounting flange. The hose that comes with it might work for you but in this case, I replaced it with about a foot of 1 inch dia surgical hose. The fitting on the tank inlet and the filler are 1 inch barbed so just mount the tank and filler tube where you want them and slip the hose on. Simple. The tank accepts most GM pumps and sensors and probably a lot of others. I mounted the tank low on the right side near the firewall.
With that done, I could install the right fender liner so that's not laying around any more. Same routine as the left side. Next I finished off the radiator. The CTS cooling system uses a surge tank. There is no need for a radiator cap but I couldn't find a performance aluminum radiator without a cap. No big deal, I just plugged the overflow tube fitting and installed a return line fitting on the tank just below the cap. The hose from there will go back to the surge tank. I also mounted two 8" pulling fans, one near the inlet hose and one near the outlet hose. The CTS system uses two fan speeds and the resistor needs to be kept cool while operating at low speed. The resistors are in that black plastic box mounted on the upper fan. With that done I mounted the radiator in the car. Moving on, I need to get the fuel tank finished off. The CTS has an elaborate pump and sensor system that goes into the tank. On the CTS, the tank was partially divided by a drive shaft tunnel. On the right side is the pump and level sensor. On the left is a fuel level sensor and fuel pick up. A tube connects the two so the pump can siphon fuel from both sides. I couldn't use the CTS tank so I got an 18 gallon tank from a 68 Camaro since it was a good fit between my frame rails. Since I now have an unobstructed fuel tank, the two pickup system is redundant but it would require some reprogramming in the ECM to eliminate the pickup and sensor module. I decided to put them both in since they are designed to work together and reprogramming would require testing the system to determine which sensor does what. By the time I'm at the point where I start testing electrical systems, I'm sure I won't want to drop this tanks back out and start looking for problems. Sooo, I cut the holes for the two units and started flattening the ribs in the area where the flanges will need to seal with the palm nailer from inside. I cut some rings that I'll drill and tap. These will go inside the tank. The big O ring goes on the outside of the tank, then the pump goes in and the flange on top of the pump assy rests on the O ring. I modified the original CTS retainer ring and I'll drill that to match the bolt locations on the lower ring.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. Last edited by Jack 1957; 11-17-2018 at 09:02 PM. |
#1038
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Jack - can you show some more detail of the palm nailer method?
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Larry |
#1039
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Larry, The palm nailer is just helpful when you need to hammer from inside close quarters and don't have enough room to swing a hammer. Some of the work on this tank had to be hammered from inside with the dolly on the outside. Most of it was done the other way, dolly inside and hammer from outside.
I'm making progress on the tank. I made two steel rings from 3/16" plate and drilled bolt holes in them before installing them on the inside of each of the holes. I used panel bond to hold them in place and seal them. Then I riveted them in to hold them until the panel bond cures. The other holes in the plates are for screws that will hold the pump and level sensor. The green O rings go on first, then the pump and sensor, then the retaining rings are bolted on.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. Last edited by Jack 1957; 11-20-2018 at 10:37 AM. |
#1040
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I have the fab work on the tank finished. On the far left is the new filler neck, then the level sending unit, on the far right is the pump. Below, in the lower middle is the original filler neck. I'm not going to block that off. I'll need it to mount a remote canister inside the trunk to house the vapor recovery separator.
On the CTS, that was mounted in a raised area at the rear of the tank. On this tank, there is no way to make a raised area to keep the separator out of the gasoline so I'll add the remote canister. The tank is mounted, wired and plumbed. I need to mount a filler tube so it comes up to the left tail light opening.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
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