#41
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Get him Joe!
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Mike |
#42
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You are doing a lot of the things that I will be on my project too, Have there been any updates?
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#43
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Hi Marcus
well I see by the date of my last post that it has been 2 years since I posted and I have done very little on it since then. Just made a door bottom a year ago at Kerrys meet. No time for my stuff, busy with Customer cars. Steve
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping |
#44
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Got to get food on he table first but hope you can still find a bit of time for it.
Cheers Marcus
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#45
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Shocked when I saw the date on the last post!
Life and Family have been a bigger priority! Looking through photos to catch things up a bit. Steve
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping |
#46
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Hi Steve,
All good things take time. What a great project, it's always so neat to see other peoples work and what they are doing, as well as plans for the end result. Keep us posted when you get the pictures sorted out. We all can learn from others experiences and knowledge. TX Mr fixit Chris |
#47
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Looking forward to your updates. Phenomenal work so far.
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#48
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I wasnt here for the first go around, but enjoyed catching up. Thanks for taking the time to document your progress. Good luck finishing up.
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Barry Duckworth |
#49
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Well here we go. This has been a few years now so i may not remember it all, but should be close.
When I started the project I determined that to get the right look and to match up to the needed wheel base, the doors should be lengthened by 4 inches, and the body behind the door be stretched 13 inches. After reconditioning the hinges and assembling them and hanging the doors to mach the cowl area, it was time to lengthen the door openings. scribed reference marks were placed on the door opening, both top and bottom prior to any cutting. the floor was cut and the old rusty steps were removed. The seam sealer in the drip rail was removed by scrapping and wire wheel. all of the spot welds drilled out and the roof skin removed so it could be reused. The upper door jamb/drip rail was removed, then replaced with the new longer ones that I made. Below shows the door in place to insure everything is squared up. An old frame was used as a fixture. the body bolted down tight and new holes drilled in the to mount the back of the cab securely. After double and triple checking measurements the running board/ step was welded in completely note the cable winches used to square up the cab before bracing was installed. some of the toe board to replace rust out and with this chassis the engine is lower so no trans tunnel is needed. Jambs are solid so off with the back of the cab used the pullmax to put beads in the floor. Just my OCD..... yes they match the factory floor beads. Steve
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 12-12-2019 at 05:50 PM. |
#50
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shallow hat channel floor brace was used to anchor the new floor and body mount to the original floor at the original body mount and cross brace.
The floor extension can now be used to locate the back panel. I used two doors to make one. selected the top cut point to get a uniform flow of the window opening and the top door lip. I will make a new lower skin in one piece after all of the door frame and inner panel are finished up. when the skin is off the inside of the frame can be sand blasted and sealed with epoxy. the cab mount was not removed from the skin so it worked perfect for alignment and fit up. Was able to salvage the heavy recessed washer for the cab mount. finished up the flanges on the floor patch at the step and welded it in solid. step area ready for a little grinding. I think it looks much like the factory one A total of six doors were used by the time I found enough sections to make the new quarter windows. The front of the window is made from the back of the door window rotated 180*. some reforming required to mach at the top and bottom. I like the proportions for the window size. I will be keeping the original vent windows, they just look right to me and work well to move are in or out. My goal is not a custom but rather a prototype that might have been made back then.
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 12-12-2019 at 08:32 PM. |
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