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  #491  
Old 12-09-2016, 12:05 AM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Here are a couple shots of the infamous centerline crossover that gave me so many sleepless nights. It took some time but I've got it right. The mounting edge on the inboard side narrows as it comes forward and crosses the center line of the buck as it gets to the front. This edge is not a straight line. It curves in the vertical and longitudinal planes. Then to further complicate things. I am adding an inch of width on the inboard side so the dimensions change from addition of one inch on the inboard side to subtraction of one inch once it crosses over to the outboard side. (Reread that and think about it for a minute. Measurements are taken from the centerline of the buck.)

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I used these guides on the upper half of the outboard side because there won't be a bent flange along the upper half, it will be welded to the body. I don't think I can do the same on the lower half. The skirt will have a bent flange along the edge. It could become trapped on the buck. I will have to notch the stations down there but having the contour template there might be trouble. I'll have to think about it some more because I would like to have some sort of guide to help me get the curved edge to fit the body. Oh well, a couple more sleepless nights won't kill me.

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Last edited by Jack 1957; 12-09-2016 at 12:10 AM.
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  #492  
Old 12-09-2016, 10:40 AM
JimRussell JimRussell is offline
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WOW! That's a lot of thought, a lot of work and I wish I had done this good of a job on a buck on some of my projects. Thanks for documenting this.
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  #493  
Old 12-12-2016, 08:48 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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There will be a small bit of wheel opening for tire clearance down low where the skirt starts rolling inward toward the tire. It's so low that you'd have to be laying down on the ground to see it but it needs to be there.
What I'm doing here is, rather than make this area a permanent wooden part of the buck, I made it from 3/4" .060 wall round steel tube. When this skirt is finished, this tube will be part of the skirt frame. When I convert to make the right fender, I'll make the second one for that side.
The skirt frame will be mostly 3/4" angle and other small sized tube but I always use round tube where there is any chance of a tire rubbing, even momentarily. Round tube won't dig in or scrape the sidewall. If the tire is that close, something will need to be changed but at least you won't destroy a tire finding out there's a problem.

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  #494  
Old 12-13-2016, 09:49 PM
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I had a few details to finish up today. I made the wheel opening frame for the right side so I wouldn't have to do it later. If you don't have a fancy tube bender you can get a pretty good bend on round tube with a couple pieces of 2x4 scraps. Cut and sand a radius on the ends and screw them down to your bench. It will be stronger if you are applying pressure to the end grain rather than the sides. It took less than 20 minutes to make a mirror image of the first one.

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I also needed to finish the lower part of the front and rear stringers.

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Here it is. The finished product. There are two areas that will need to be figured out on the fly. The first is the front lower corner of the wheel opening on the skirt. The fender that I took my dimensions from was completely rusted out down there and rather than guess, I'll test fit the skirt frame to the car when I'm making that. The second is the bumper area. I'm going to go ahead with the intent to make a bumper from scratch. The buck is set up for that but I recently saw a picture of a 54 Merc rear bumper and it looks like it could possibly be modified to work here. (Anyone have one laying around?). Either way, this buck is done! I can finally put away the woodworking equipment and get back to what I do. It took over a half hour to blow the sawdust out of here

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  #495  
Old 12-13-2016, 11:04 PM
rivetdriver rivetdriver is offline
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very nice job on the buck.
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  #496  
Old 12-14-2016, 10:00 AM
ScooterCO ScooterCO is offline
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That buck is a piece of art! Well done. Now lets shape some metal...


I am getting so excited.
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  #497  
Old 12-14-2016, 12:17 PM
Marc Bourget Marc Bourget is offline
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If you're using round tube because the tire may rub, how do you manage R&R of the wheel/tire assembly? If a portion, or the whole thing, is removable, I missed that in your thread. [understandably overwhelmed!]

mjb
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  #498  
Old 12-14-2016, 01:35 PM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Great looking buck Jack. That's going to make the shaping so much easier. I regret I did not take the time to do the same type of thing.
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  #499  
Old 12-14-2016, 04:38 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc Bourget View Post
If you're using round tube because the tire may rub, how do you manage R&R of the wheel/tire assembly? If a portion, or the whole thing, is removable, I missed that in your thread. [understandably overwhelmed!]

mjb
Marc, The round tube is temporarily mounted on the buck with a couple screws. When I start making the frame for the skirt, I will weld the round tube wheel opening to the rest of the frame. The skirt, everything front to back and from the stringer down will be removable for tire R&R.
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  #500  
Old 12-14-2016, 05:36 PM
mildsteel 2002 mildsteel 2002 is offline
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Great work. Jack
Looking forward to seeing the guards take shape.
Regards Dennis.
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