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Camaro on a Morrison chassis
The car came to me with the body welded to the chassis, so it will be a unibody. The first project is the trans tunnel. I came up with the idea fo the metal buck, and it worked really well! Used 19 ga angle at the floor shaped with shrinker/stretcher, then bent 1/4 rod to make three hoops with proper clearance for trans. 3/4-1 inch. Used 19ga. strips cut 1/2 wide and tacked it together with Mig. Used self drill/thread screws to hold to floor & firewall, so I could remove it and work on the bench. I thought i would try to do it in two panels so made a quick paper pattern from the buck for each section. This showed me that there was not a real lot of shape in either part. The front needed a lot of stretch at the back to make the reverse. I used a wedge hammer to linear stretch on a shot bag and some on the stump. Used the power hammer lightly to smooth out the mess. Well that fits pretty good next the back part Steve
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping Last edited by route56wingnut; 08-17-2012 at 04:17 AM. |
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Looks good Steve!
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Rick Scott The second mouse gets the cheese! |
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trans tunnel back 1/2
The back section needed a lot uf shrink at the rear to neck down to the driveshaft hump. I cut a slit from the rear at the radius going forward about 6 inches to let the metal overlap as I shaped the bulge in the sides. The buck was strong enough that I could clamp with visegrips and hammer /slap to shap the neck. Scribed the overlap, trimmed & TIG welded. Since the sides are not symetrical the RH needed a slit up a few inches and also welded.
The front part was stretched with the shotbag and mallet then smoothed I think with the wheel, maybe the power hammer. More pics tomarrow. Steve
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping |
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Looks good...as that back tapers down I might suggest doing it in another piece and welding together to make it easier on you.
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Kyle |
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Some great thinking there, keep posting pictures.
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Will |
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looks really cool.
i know its not all metalshaping related but any specs on the car? i have always loved those bodystyles!
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Brent Click |
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photos of paper patterns
I took some photos of the patterns this morning. the red marks show areas to stretch & the black marks indicate where there is too much metal.
The green tape on the frront part is covering a fold which means too much metal.
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping |
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Here is how the back part looks after welding & some more shaping
still needs to be adjusted for arrangement and radius at the floor flange, which will be done at installation.
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping |
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follow up of old project
I was looking through some of my old posts and found that I have a number that need to be updated.
Back in 2014 I was working on this floor for a car that is still not completed. the goal is to be an ISCA show car, so the bottom needs to be as nice as the body sheetmetal. Used the rotisserie to avoid working out of position as much as possible. fit everything up in the car then tack welded or cleco fastened the parts. did all the welding and finishing before installing it all back in the chassis. Steve
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping |
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more floor shots
Attachment 54305 Attachment 54306 Attachment 54307 Attachment 54308 Attachment 54309 Attachment 54310 Attachment 54311 Attachment 54312
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 12-01-2019 at 05:19 PM. |
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