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  #1051  
Old 08-09-2019, 07:33 AM
Jon Thompson Jon Thompson is offline
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Marcus super job! Very clean!
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  #1052  
Old 08-10-2019, 11:03 AM
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Thanks Larry Dave and Jon. Amazing how much time exhaust takes in confined places like this.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 08-10-2019 at 11:17 AM.
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  #1053  
Old 08-10-2019, 09:06 PM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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The exhaust looks great, Marcus. What did you use to cut the stainless pipe?
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  #1054  
Old 08-11-2019, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by cliffrod View Post
The exhaust looks great, Marcus. What did you use to cut the stainless pipe?
Thank you.
I just used a new 1mm thin 125mm cutoff disc on my angle grinder.
I like to swap out my discs when switching to stainless in case I impregnate mild steel into the surface from old ones.
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  #1055  
Old 09-21-2019, 05:35 PM
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Back from 5 weeks country and island hopping around the Mediterranean Sea. Ticked of bucket list items like diving inside a ship wreck off the coast of Cyprus, to climbing up and exploring the ancient ruins of Masada in Israel!


Now to fit up the resonators. They had 3" S shaped bends welded on to get the tips down and closer together. I didn't need that so cut them, the tips and the hangers off. I had some 3" stainless steel tubing left over from the nudge bar from my other Jeep. I had used the rest of its bends to make a new tailpipe for it too!


When I cut the bends off I left the original factory mig welds in place. I have just sat the straight piece of tubing straight on top, so not welded yet in this shot.


To weld the new tailpipes on I used the tig to heat the mig weld and wash over the join. The side is done and you might be able to make out the join still on the untouched weld across the top in front of the mig weld.


Tigged the join all the way around.


Hit it with a stainless steel hand brush to stop it oxidising.


Both done. I also welded up the drain hole so I could rotate the seam to the top and re-drilled the hole at the bottom.


Using the original hanger hardware and just folded up a bracket which I drilled for the isolator posts and then tigged them into place.


Bracket welded on and all the weight is now on the hangers only. The bed floor is wider than the rails and will cover the exhaust and the frame skirts will hide them from the side.


The tips are just sitting there as I don't know exactly how long I need the tailpipe to be yet.
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  #1056  
Old 09-22-2019, 06:37 AM
Larry4406 Larry4406 is offline
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Nice job as always!

Curious on your tig welding of the factory mig weld. Was the weld bad or were you trying to achieve improved stainless steel rust resistance? Or...? It surely looks better now.
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  #1057  
Old 09-23-2019, 05:32 AM
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Nice job as always!

Curious on your tig welding of the factory mig weld. Was the weld bad or were you trying to achieve improved stainless steel rust resistance? Or...? It surely looks better now.
The mig weld was left over after cutting off the original tailpipe that had a double bend. Rather than grind it all away, I sat the new straight tailpipe on top of the old mig weld. Then used the tig to flow the mig weld into and over the new join. Very hard to see the join because I made it a tight fit.
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  #1058  
Old 09-28-2019, 07:15 AM
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Sorry but a bit picture heavy!

I am making a piece to fit between the two suspension tower braces to stiffen them up some more. I am just using some 2mm-14g cold rolled galvanised steel I had which is the thickest the dimple dies can take. You see the scrap test piece to workout the correct depth I needed to achieve.


The ends will also be flared. I broke the fold line using the tipping die on my bead roller. Being cold rolled and so thick I only could go this far.


Tipped it the rest of the way with a modified high crown hammer over a stake dolly I had made years ago for this sort of work.


I machined a step into the end of the male die to match the smaller hole I am using to get extra flare depth. The female die was lined up with a previously marked line as the smaller hole doesn't allow the normal alignment.


Both pieces ready for assembly.


I have them just sitting on top of each other to make sure the gap between them is the same as the centre of the brace where they will be fitted.


Welded the two halves together and ground the welds smooth. Used a die grinder and then hand filed them with a half moon file before using a flap wheel in a drill.


Can see the penetration coming through to the inside.


Ready to fit.


I welded as much as I could in situ to keep correct alignment. For some practice on thicker metal I just used the tig without a filler rod to fuse the join.


On the backside I thought I would try using some 1.2mm, (0.45), mig wire as a filler. Went a lot quicker and easier.


I used the lay wire technique where you leave the wire in the join and run over it with the torch rather than feeding the wire in. Gives good consistency. Remember to have your filler wire and torch at 90* to each other.


I had also lowered the brace some more as I am not going to be running the stock engine cover. Most likely none at all.


It made a lot of difference to the overall stiffness as had to use the press to make some adjustments to get it to sit on perfectly. Before I could just force some movement by hand.
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Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
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  #1059  
Old 09-28-2019, 01:51 PM
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123pugsy 123pugsy is offline
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Very slick Marcus. You never disappoint.
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  #1060  
Old 10-06-2019, 04:12 AM
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Not much was picture worthy this week so will only show a little bit of what was done to save boredom.


I have always planned more bracing of the suspension tower to frame connection. I waited until I made sure I had the clearance needed first. I want to plate down to the inside of the frame. Not going to be that simple as the tower is at a different angle to the inside edge of the frame which also starts to curve at the back edge. The gap at the top front is how much the plate has to twist to fit.


I picked these cast forms up from a military collector I bought my trailer from. No idea what they were for but use them to shape steel over.


Using 4mm plate the same as the frame thickness. Being hot rolled as well makes it harder to shape


It now follows both the frame edge and the suspension tower.


I drilled three holes like the tower brace above the engine. I left the ends open so I can still run any wiring and pipe work through.


Should be all that is needed now to keep the towers from flexing.


Took the cab off to weld the body mounts in place.
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