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Old 03-10-2016, 09:29 PM
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MP&C MP&C is offline
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Default 1947 Biederman Truck Fender Repairs

Tonight in the shop we started the repair work on the front fenders for the 1947 Biederman Truck, seen here for reference:



The fenders are made using 16 gauge steel, so this may be a bit challenging when we get to blocking and wheeling patches for the fenders themselves. In the meantime (while still waiting for the new English wheel) let's get started on the inner fenders. The driver's side is the worst, with so much rotted away that we couldn't get accurate dimensions. The passenger side was in much better condition, but just shy of 70 years has taken its toll in adding some wavy distortion. So we'll remake both sides for a better match.



In order to get a more crisp bend on the 16 gauge steel, we used a tipping die in the Lennox to thin the metal at the line of the bend.







Bending in the Baileigh Magnetic Brake..









This detail shot shows how the thinning helps get a tighter bend..



Next, we needed a profile template for the rear radius, so the kick shrinker is used on a folded 19 gauge strip to add the radius..





A flat folded strip works better than an angle as if you shrink too far in this direction.....



......you can simply shrink the back half to reverse the effect without the need for changing to the stretching die..



Now with an accurate pattern, we can use the template on the new inner fender..





All trimmed...





With the new clamped to the old, we can see what the years of abuse has done..



One down, one to go..
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Old 03-11-2016, 01:56 AM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Looking forward to seeing you do this one Robert.
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Old 03-11-2016, 11:36 AM
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This looks like a fun one.

Jere
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Old 03-11-2016, 01:16 PM
Janne Janne is offline
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Same here, keep it going

For me it still takes much time to shrink or stretch the folded strip to right radius but eventually I get it..more practise
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:15 PM
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Today we got the second inner fender cut out, and took them both over for a test fit on the truck





The driver's side has a bolting plate in the middle of the frame for the steering box, so a relief notch was in order...



....as well as a bit of trimming for some clearance so that the paint won't be chipped off on the first test drive. The fabrication of these parts are done, and we hope to pick up the Tommasini Wheeling Machine soon so we can get started on the fender patches..





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Old 03-14-2016, 09:00 PM
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Had a question about placement of the thinning groove, so I thought I'd post the results of the test sample...




Quote:
Originally Posted by WoodsTruck
Question about the use of your tipping die for bending a straight line.


What would happen if you made the divot on the back side of the bend instead of the front? I realize you are referring to this as "thinning" the metal, but aren't you actually forging it in a sense since you aren't actually removing metal but compacting it primarily? To my inexperience it would seem that a tight bend could be made without the resulting trough if the tipping die was used on the backside of the bend.


Fantastic work though, wish I had half the knowledge and tools to do that stuff. I'm a graduate of the BFH school.


Here's the test from tonight. The 16 ga thickness measured out to about .057, at the "thinning" groove it was .053, so we lost about .004 in thickness, or less than 10%. Put the thinning groove on the outside for this bend, it tended to stretch the deformity back out again where it looks like it could be more readily cleaned up with a file..











So where the bending process allowed the groove to stretch back out....







...it also gave us a wider radius than when the thinning was placed on the inside of the bend...







So I'd say to use placement based on if a tighter radius is needed or whether you need it dressed out. Given our original intent was a tighter/sharper radius, I'd place the thinning inside the bend to support that..
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Last edited by MP&C; 03-15-2016 at 07:56 AM.
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