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  #21  
Old 08-29-2015, 02:49 AM
ozi jim's Avatar
ozi jim ozi jim is offline
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Thanks guys.

Will here is a sample of the drawings.

Top side view and station locations.

A front suspension drawing

A station pattern

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Last edited by ozi jim; 08-31-2015 at 06:39 AM.
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  #22  
Old 08-29-2015, 03:11 AM
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ozi jim ozi jim is offline
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I will give some details.

These cars run on 13" wheels so they had inboard rear disks.
I want to keep things very simple in most areas.
So it will have out board rear disks

I looked around for a disk wheel bearing and caliper combo that would fit the wheel.

Being a mechanic I am fortunate that I have a big range of makes come through my shop to look at.

2010 toyota corolla ended up the choice.
It uses a hub style bearing and a 275mm disk.
Wilwood makes a 4 spot caliper that fits this disk with a 13" rim.
The front wheel bearing is fitted to the rear and rear to the front.
I machined the OD on the rear hub to fit the front disks.
All 4 disks are the same.

I will use 2 R/H corolla drive shafts,they are tubes and make it easy to do a cut and shut on.

I made all the uprights out of 2mm hot rolled steel.

I dont consider the front upright pretty but it is what it is.
The bearing bolts directly to it.
The upright bare is 2.4kg
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Last edited by ozi jim; 08-29-2015 at 03:15 AM.
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  #23  
Old 08-29-2015, 03:31 AM
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ozi jim ozi jim is offline
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Rear upright if the same material.

Again some basic jigs to get the A-B-C's in the right places.

It has an inner floor to get the drive shaft to fit into the bearing assembly.

It took about 8 hrs to put one together from scratch.

It weighs 4kg

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  #24  
Old 08-29-2015, 03:35 AM
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brakes and shaft fitted


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  #25  
Old 08-29-2015, 03:47 AM
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Thats the mechanical stuff to date,
The engine will be a 3lt V6 nissan VQ30, its a good strong engine.
Transaxle will be a Getrag 6 speed (Audi).

Today I got a start on the center board ,I am offsetting the board in the foot well area by 1" as I need more room.
It still leaves enough for the passenger but to be honest I dont really care, as long as I have room.
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All for know

Jim
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  #26  
Old 08-29-2015, 05:32 AM
RockHillWill RockHillWill is offline
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Oh man, is that stuff ever VERY cool! I would love to live close enough to be of some help on this project. I love the suspension stuff and the riveted monocock (sp?) tub. Thanks for posting the pics of the drawings, it makes it even more impressive that you are building this from scratch with modest input. You are clearly very gifted in vision and creative in your approach to fabrication.

How were the outriggers cut? The 'slots' at the radiused perimeter is a clever idea. Did you use a hammer form buck to do the bending and the center hole radius?
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  #27  
Old 08-29-2015, 06:12 AM
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Thanks Will , I feel the same about the project, The idea has been swimming around in my head for 20 years.

One thing I realize with air craft panels is they have lots of releafs for folding and radius, where corners fold in they never come together,When I saw this and started making the parts it is easier to fit and assemble.

The outrigger panels, I made one in 5mm alloy ( a die).
I cleco a sheet to it and trim it on the band saw.
All the cut outs on the radius of the die are 13mm wide.
I use a trimmer that is 1/2" with a bearing.
You just go around the die with the trimmer and it cuts the panel perfectly.

I fold the 2 edges in the folder then put it on a ply die to hammer over the rad and form in the hole swage for the fuel tank.
You can see the ply die in post 2 pic 2, upper L/H behind the blue ice cream container.

The large hole is cut out with the trimmer on the 5mm die as well.
The 50mm holes for the cooling pipes I use a hyd punch.

Jim
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Last edited by ozi jim; 08-29-2015 at 06:41 AM.
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  #28  
Old 08-29-2015, 09:26 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozi jim View Post
Thanks Will , I feel the same about the project, The idea has been swimming around in my head for 20 years.

One thing I realize with air craft panels is they have lots of releafs for folding and radius, where corners fold in they never come together,When I saw this and started making the parts it is easier to fit and assemble.

The outrigger panels, I made one in 5mm alloy ( a die).
I cleco a sheet to it and trim it on the band saw.
All the cut outs on the radius of the die are 13mm wide.
I use a trimmer that is 1/2" with a bearing.
You just go around the die with the trimmer and it cuts the panel perfectly.

I fold the 2 edges in the folder then put it on a ply die to hammer over the rad and form in the hole swage for the fuel tank.
You can see the ply die in post 2 pic 2, upper L/H behind the blue ice cream container.

The large hole is cut out with the trimmer on the 5mm die as well.
The 50mm holes for the cooling pipes I use a hyd punch.

Jim
It's good to see your nice clean tub work, Jim.
Ever seen an M5-A tub? Serious riveting and bulkhead work, but inspiring for those wanting to build automotive in the aviation style.
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  #29  
Old 08-29-2015, 05:44 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozi jim View Post
I use a trimmer that is 1/2" with a bearing.
You just go around the die with the trimmer and it cuts the panel perfectly.

Jim
By "trimmer" I imagine a small router with a flush-trim bit - or are you using something else?,

Cheers Charlie
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  #30  
Old 08-29-2015, 06:34 PM
ozi jim's Avatar
ozi jim ozi jim is offline
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Thanks gents

Charlie yes a small router.

I have the flush trim bits for cutting lamanents, they are good in tight spots if needed
They tend to gaul on the alloy dies so I have designed all the sheet work around the smallest bearing style bit that is flush.

I will take some pics of the dies that I have made so far to cut shapes and corners before folding.
The dies are all 5mm alloy as I can bandsaw them and make them fast, you just clamp them under the sheet and away you go.

The trimmer is worth its weight in gold, it comes out so neat.

Jim
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Last edited by ozi jim; 08-30-2015 at 06:27 AM.
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