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Old 08-28-2019, 09:49 PM
Sbgunderson Sbgunderson is offline
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Question Surface rust on panels and equipment

Hello all, I am just getting started out in metal shaping. I am working in a two car garage in the Washington DC area. I was surprised to see rust develop in just a day or two on the English wheel anvils and steel panels. The humidity has been 60-80%.

Should I be running a dehumidifier? Does any one oil/wd40 their panels and equipment to stave off rust? And what techniques have you found most effective for removing surface rust?

Many thanks for your help,
Spencer
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Old 08-28-2019, 10:17 PM
Mike Rouse Mike Rouse is offline
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I use mineral oil to prevent rust. The mineral oil can be purchased in a drug store. There are no harmful to you additives in the oil. Machinery oil contains additives that may or may not be harmful to you.
Mike.
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Old 08-29-2019, 09:40 AM
billfunk29 billfunk29 is offline
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https://www.cortecvci.com/
I have used the tablets and sheets. Both worked well.


I also like Boeshield for tools. Not as messy as WD-40. Not as cheap either.
https://www.theruststore.com/Boeshie...saAkrzEALw_wcB
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Old 08-29-2019, 10:16 AM
Gizmojoe Gizmojoe is offline
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Hi there.

I don't usually post. There are so many wonderfully experienced folks that my opinion is minor.

However, when it comes to rust... folks around my part of the world (East coast of Canada) have plenty experience.

Bare, freshly cleaned steel here rusts in front of your eyes. Unfortunately I'm not kidding or exaggerating. Cars with "patina" are usually not around for long. We call it rust.. not patina.

A dehumidifier is a must here. The humidity is usually 80% or more. Seriously.
It was down to 34% a couple of days ago but a storm was coming.

If you don't have a "vapor barrier" in your shop, you really should. Do you have finished walls? If not, it is so easy to add that layer.

I suggest that you build a cabinet (with vapor barrier) for your "delicate" parts and toss in a few bags of desiccant that comes with electronic equipment. That stuff is poisonous so keep animals and kids away from it though.

As for rust on equipment, we usually oil them up with mineral spirits (as Mike Rouse said) or use a spray or brush-on "rust-converter" that you can get from most hardware stores. Phosphoric acid or Tanic acid seem to be the main ingredients, which changes the rust (iron oxide) to black ("ferrous oxide" from the phosphoric acid or "iron tannate" from the tanic, I believe). The black is inert and, if you cleaned the flaky rust off first, it's fine to prime and paint over with most primers. Ask the paint guys about acid-etched primers over it though. I'm no pro.

Items that might get etched, from the rust or the rust converters, and lose their finish (like wheeling machine anvils , planishing hammer anvils, hammers and dollies, etc.) get put in the cabinets.
It's a pain but worth it.

Sorry for the long sentences and over-use of commas and such. I'm retired now and am quickly forgetting all that grammar stuff.

I'll be quiet now. Back to lurking and learning a lot.
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Old 08-29-2019, 10:46 AM
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MP&C MP&C is offline
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I’m in Southern MD and run AC in the shop set just enough to keep humidity down. Most bare sheet metal has been sitting there for years with no surface rust.

So yeah, whatever means to remove humidity will help tremendously
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Last edited by MP&C; 08-29-2019 at 10:50 AM.
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Old 08-29-2019, 08:53 PM
geelhoed geelhoed is offline
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gibbs brand penetrant. google it

Andy Geelhoed(guesswork)
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Old 08-30-2019, 02:07 AM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
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Hi Spencer

We have pretty significant humidity most of the year in Auckland New Zealand, plus my palms seem to sweat quite a bit, so any ferrous panel I'm fettling oxides pretty rapidly.

On my wheeling machine (home made) I made a bath for the anvils to sit in with a hinged cover over the top. When I place them back in there I give them a quick spin in the 1/2" of used lathe oil (Telus 46 or similar) that they sit in. I also wipe a small amount of this over the upper when I'm finished for the day.

I terms of finished panels or any other ferrous bits, as soon as they are done I treat them with a phosphoric cleaner 'Tergophos' which is a detergent and etch. Rinse dry and then spray with a super thin coat of 'Ephiphos' which is a weld through quick drying clear coat. I have a cheap spraygun with some of this permanently in it.

Providing you are not handling the items a great deal (sweat eventually breaks through) the coating holds up really well - 3 years plus.

Both products are from international firm Chemetal.

20150614_133047.jpg

20160731_225611.jpg
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