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  #141  
Old 07-07-2017, 08:51 PM
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heinke heinke is offline
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Originally Posted by blue62 View Post
Joel
thanks for explaining your process in making the door skin.
I can see where the reference lines would keep you on track in the wheeling process.
I am going to have to try that with a fender I am trying to make.
Your build is amazing and your work is top notch.
Keep the posts coming your builds is one of my favorites.
Dave
Dave: thanks for following and I'm glad I can pass along some helpful information.
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  #142  
Old 07-07-2017, 08:59 PM
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Post Drivers door – door skin attached

I finally had a chance to get the driver’s side door skin attached. Given what I’d learned from the passenger door, I had to put quite a bit more work into the upper front and back portions of the inner door frame prior to putting on the skin. These areas needed to be re-enforced and more solid in order to provide a good clamping surface for the hem that holds the door skin in place. Next time I build inner door frames, I’ll know to do this from the start.

Once the door frame preparation was completed, attaching the skin was pretty much the same experience as for the passenger door. The result however, was better. Prior to putting on the car, I measured the door skin for crown. The crown looks even and good.



The main improvement is that the door gap is an even 3/16” all the way around. The temporary bracing did the trick to keep the inner frame from flexing while I was hammering the skin over it. Here’s the door mounted in place.



I did find two other clearance issues when opening the door. The door front edge rubs on the front fender door pocket as the door is being opened and the door stop within the hinge doesn’t engage until after the door skin contacts the fender edge on full open. For the first issue, I ground away some door pocket fiberglass until no more rub. For the second, I needed to weld a ¼” tab on the door stop so the door wouldn’t open quite so far. Luckily, I noticed this before opening door all the way as it could have put a vertical crease in the nice new door skin. Both issues fixed.

I had to make some adjustments for matching the body surface surrounding the door. Like passenger door, the upper front corner needed to be raised and in addition, about half the bottom edge needed to be raised about 1/16”. Once these adjustments were done, the door now looks good in profile.



Every so often, I like to get the GTO out of the garage so I can step back and see how is it looks from more than 5 feet back. Now that the doors are in place, I decided to push the GTO outside to check out the body flow. Wow, gotta love those flowing lines!



Next up, I plan to tackle the trunk lid.
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  #143  
Old 07-08-2017, 04:33 AM
Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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That came out really nice and great to see it outside as well. Can't say I have ever been able to that yet but maybe next year sometime.
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  #144  
Old 07-08-2017, 05:06 AM
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That's looking really good Joel.
Thanks for the updates.
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  #145  
Old 07-15-2017, 08:32 PM
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heinke heinke is offline
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Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
That came out really nice and great to see it outside as well. Can't say I have ever been able to that yet but maybe next year sometime.
Marcus: It's great to see the project outside but the real joy comes from the "test rides". I happen to have a 1/4 mile of driveway so I can take test rides without breaking the law

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That's looking really good Joel.
Thanks for the updates.
Pugsy: I'm waiting to see some updates on your project. Do you have some progress to show?
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  #146  
Old 07-15-2017, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by heinke View Post
Pugsy: I'm waiting to see some updates on your project. Do you have some progress to show?
Sorry, still working on the new house build.
About six months to go...... I hope.......
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  #147  
Old 07-15-2017, 08:45 PM
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Post Making GTO trunk lid

I have now moved on to making the trunk lid. On the GTO, the trunk lid isn’t very big but it’s complicated due to a section that curves around the fuel fill opening. So, here’s the trunk opening that needs to be filled.



The first step was to trim up the opening so the seal would have a consistent spacing around it. I’m skinning the trunk lid in aluminum and will be using a superleggera approach. That is, a frame made of small tube, pieces of aluminum attached to the frame for attaching the skin, and the skin clamped over those. So, I needed to work out how best to attach the hinges to the frame. Here’s my mockup.





I decided to use ¾” square thin wall stainless steel tube for the frame. I chose stainless so I wouldn’t need to paint it, it would match the polished aluminum interior, and it wouldn’t have any galvanic corrosion issues with the aluminum. The first step in making the frame was to make a cardboard template to guide the bending.



I used a Harbor Freight cheapy hydraulic jack pipe bender for the gentle bends and pie cut/weld for the sharp bends. I made the pie cuts by eye and fortunately, they came out good enough. With 3 pie cuts to a corner, the SS is annealed after welding and that makes small adjustment bends for the newly welded corner easy. The overall frame bending is made more complicated in that the frame bends in two dimensions and there’s quite a bit of spring back in the SS tube. So, I spent a bunch of time making small bends this way and that to get the frame to fit the template.





And the real test, does it all open and close smoothly when attached to the hinges. At first it didn’t, then I figured out that wedges were needed between the frame and hinge mounts to keep the hinges parallel. With wedges in place, the trunk lid frame opens and closes smoothly.



That’s it for now.
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  #148  
Old 07-20-2017, 02:01 AM
Diabolical Diabolical is offline
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Awesome project!
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