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Old 08-03-2018, 05:31 AM
Kyle_yocum Kyle_yocum is offline
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Default soldering steel

Good morning guys! I'm in need of some advice. I'm building an coolant recovery tank for an old Packard and the seams are soldered, not brazed or welded. What type of solder and flux are you guys using for stuff like this? Any advice on technique? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 08-03-2018, 07:28 AM
Gareth Davies Gareth Davies is offline
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Kyle,

You might be best to pre-tin all the edges to be soldered with a brush on tinning paste (paint it on then heat up with a blow torch) and then solder with a big iron - the sort with a copper head that's heated in a hearth - and solder bar. There's plenty of ways to do it but pre-tinning, or using tin plate, will guarantee you the best chances of success.
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Old 08-03-2018, 08:20 AM
Marc Bourget Marc Bourget is offline
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Talk to the Tinman!


Or visit his website!
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Old 08-03-2018, 09:16 AM
Ron Naida Ron Naida is offline
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Tin all around so it does not rust unless you can find
Terne plate sheet

Then solder the seams with
40 tin 60 lead using Harris stay clean flux
Wash off good and pressure test to about 4lbs

ron
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Old 08-03-2018, 09:30 AM
billfunk29 billfunk29 is offline
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Default solder steel

Old school for leading body panels; we melted solder on the panel and rubbed it in with steel wool to get it to wet. Tinning paste works better.


Once tinned, you can solder it with most solders. However, solder is not good for fatigue from vibration. Some better than others. If the tank is steel, it was likely painted from the factory. I would silver braze for a more durable part.
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Old 08-03-2018, 02:44 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Default Soldering steel tanks

I've made overflow tanks from steel, copper, brass, stlss and aluminum.
And soldered, brazed, or welded.
I've overbuilt a lot of unnecessary stuff, thinking that the orig only lasted 70 years ....



I would solder this, with no-korrode flux from the hdw store, and with the 50-50 solid wire solder, also from the local hdw store. Cheap, good, and available.
(note: 50-50 is stronger than 60-40)


How to:


Solvent scrub the steel to bright.
Flux all of the mating surfaces (edges) and then heat with torch, activating the flux, and flow out the solder to "tin" the surfaces bright.
Wipe clean.
Assemble and heat and dab the solder to make your nice finished joints, using a continuous pass.


Standard stuff.
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Old 08-07-2018, 08:56 AM
Kyle_yocum Kyle_yocum is offline
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Default thanks guys!

Quote:
Originally Posted by crystallographic View Post
I've made overflow tanks from steel, copper, brass, stlss and aluminum.
And soldered, brazed, or welded.
I've overbuilt a lot of unnecessary stuff, thinking that the orig only lasted 70 years ....



I would solder this, with no-korrode flux from the hdw store, and with the 50-50 solid wire solder, also from the local hdw store. Cheap, good, and available.
(note: 50-50 is stronger than 60-40)


How to:


Solvent scrub the steel to bright.
Flux all of the mating surfaces (edges) and then heat with torch, activating the flux, and flow out the solder to "tin" the surfaces bright.
Wipe clean.
Assemble and heat and dab the solder to make your nice finished joints, using a continuous pass.


Standard stuff.

Thanks for all the help and advice, both on here and over the phone! here is the finish tank! DSC_0945.jpg

DSC_0946.jpg

DSC_0949.jpg
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Old 08-07-2018, 11:02 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle_yocum View Post
Thanks for all the help and advice, both on here and over the phone! here is the finish tank! Attachment 48250

Attachment 48251

Attachment 48252

Kyle,
This is a stunner!
Excellent job - Gold Star.
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Old 08-07-2018, 08:19 PM
Kyle_yocum Kyle_yocum is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystallographic View Post
Kyle,
This is a stunner!
Excellent job - Gold Star.
Thank you!
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Old 08-08-2018, 05:24 AM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
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Really nice job Kyle!

How did you end up shaping the tank halves?
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