#1
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How would you straighten this? Combine auger
This is the discharge auger off a buddies John Deere 4400 combine. He had the misfortune to slide into it with another truck during one of last winter's freezes and banana'd it. After I cut it free we were able to straighten it using the wheel lift on the tow truck but I need to work out the dents so the auger turns smoothly. It has a 10" bore and is 12' long. Most of the damage is in the middle.
I'm trying to figure out what I can use as a backer to work the dents out and was thinking about getting a length of 8" well pipe and sliding the housing over it to work the accordioned sections smooth. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.
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Jamie, the kid who took his toys apart... |
#2
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I would say that the well pipe is a good idea. may need a strong support for the well pipe so that it will work like a post dolly.
Steve
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping |
#3
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Buy two 8 to 6 reducers weld but to but and you have a mandrel to drive thru and straighten . I have tutned up ball sections to drive thru dented exhausts . 8 in is 8 3/4" od
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#4
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Jamie after I pulled the auger out using a truck and a telephone pole, I shoved a length of 6" pipe through it's length and and supported one end on the back of the truck and the other end with the fork lift. Work it slow. Look inside with a flash light first to see where the auger has bin rubbing and be careful with those areas they will stretch quickly.
Jere
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Jere Kirkpatrick Valley Forge & Welding HEN-ROB Torch Dealer. Teaching The Fundamentals of Metal Shaping www.jerekirkpatrick.com All tools are a hammer except the chisel.....That's a screwdriver. |
#5
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Thanks all for the suggestions. After straightening the tube with the tow truck the auger moved enough to unscrew. Once it was out I was able to find a 10' length of 4" square stock and slid it over the lift arm on my Massey 50 and used that as a backer to rough the dents out. It was ugly but worked out as I was able to use the hammer and follow the backer by sound. I still want to find something round to finish the work. Oddly enough most of the denting was under the ring where the support links attach. I was also able to get the pivot point framework straightened and just need to fab a new pin.
Oh yeah, the duct tape covered a baseball sized hole so I get to fix that as well.
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Jamie, the kid who took his toys apart... |
#6
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I was going to suggest a trained ferret, but perhaps not
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Richard "I know nothing. I from Barcelona" (Manuel - Fawlty Towers) Link to our racecar project https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-...ab=public&view |
#7
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You'd laugh, but I was thinking about mounting my air impact hammer to the 4x4 chunk of steel and using that to push the dents out. I can just imagine how much fun that would be to use.
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Jamie, the kid who took his toys apart... |
#8
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How about using a Bowling Ball and a small Cannon? Be sure to upload to Youtube.
Alternatively, how about splitting a piece of steel pipe, removing about 20% off of each side and welding a scissor jack between them? You'd then have a decent surface to hammer against and it would be easier to slide the jack along the tube and wind it tight with a long actuating handle. Does that make sense? Personally I'd go with the Cannon.
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Rob Thomas, Cardiff, Wales, UK |
#9
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Quote:
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Richard "I know nothing. I from Barcelona" (Manuel - Fawlty Towers) Link to our racecar project https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-...ab=public&view |
#10
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Ever consider using a (??) post-welder like was used to pull out a corner on a car I saw in a body shop awhile ago?
A post is spot welded and then grabbed with a slide hammer, which is used to pull out the dents. I might be easier to "work out" the deeper (taller?) distortions then finish with the other suggestions. FWIW mjb
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Marc |
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