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  #11  
Old 02-25-2010, 05:27 PM
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german8rcoupe german8rcoupe is offline
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Chris, I find that the concentraton required and the vigorous wheeling motion warm me up! I get Reynauds syndrome in my fingers so I need to be careful.
I did more tonight but the cold killed my camera battery.
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  #12  
Old 02-26-2010, 05:08 AM
Shrapnel Shrapnel is offline
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great pic's Ross . looking forward to progress on the track front , want to one myself one da just for the heck of it !!

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  #13  
Old 02-26-2010, 12:57 PM
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Well this was yesterdays' progress...or not.
I overstretched a big area trying to shrink quite deep into the panel to get the top part lying down. I then spent the next hout trying to take all the shape out of it instead of scrapping the panel(every day's a school day eh?)
I wheeled all around the perimeter of the panel to take some crwon out of it. I also lifted the panel upwards as I wheeled to sort of pre load it and help remove the shape.
I now have a flattened part in the mddle that I am not happy about. When I wheel that up the shape changes and I get lost again.
I can now see the merits of a buck with more stations.
I may yet re-do this panel at the weekend.





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Old 02-26-2010, 05:34 PM
David Gardiner David Gardiner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by german8rcoupe View Post
Hi David, can't see where to do that? Anyway it's Ross.

An article you did in Street Machine in the 80's hammer welding a patch in a moggy minor wing started me off gas welding. ....still can't suss the ally welding though.

Practice,practice........


Ross
Glad to know at least one person read my articles. Ally welding is not too hard its just a case of going about it in the right way and practicing. Keep up the good work on the track nose. We al have bad days - you just have to persevere.
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  #15  
Old 02-26-2010, 10:11 PM
TheRodDoc TheRodDoc is offline
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If your having trouble with wheeling to get the shape try a stump or shot bag to raise an area instead. you will see the results a lot eaiser. And faster. If you want to raise the low area use a wood mallet and hollow or bag. lightly stretch it out. Then smooth with wheel. look and if more is needed repeat.

You can also reverse the process to shrink a high area. Only now use a round tree limb or post about 6" in dia. it will have a flat end on it with the edges rounded off a little. Also can use a hand held shot bag but doesn't work as well.

lay your part on it curve up and lightly work the sheetmetal back down with a flat faced wood mallet. work in a circle and move in towards the center. Then move the sheet on the post and work a new area and etc. till the area you want shrunk is done. You can flatten a bowl almost back to flat again with this method. To finish to a perfectly flat sheet it will take some heat shrinking in the center area or stretching around the outside.shrinkstump.jpg
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Last edited by TheRodDoc; 02-26-2010 at 10:15 PM.
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  #16  
Old 02-27-2010, 06:13 AM
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Richard, I have been using the stump quite alot. As I said I am going with the blocking to shape and then smoothing in the wheel approach just now.

What happened was that the shape looked good but I needed a shrink in the yellow marked areas for the panel to curve around and sit down. I did those in the stump but in doing so put the large humps in the blue areas which I then had to try and work out.
Maybe I am hitting too hard in the stump?
How do you shrink deep into a panel(4-5") with a stump as opposed to edge shrinking?

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Old 02-27-2010, 08:33 AM
TheRodDoc TheRodDoc is offline
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As long as the part has a high crown in it you can shrink it anywhere on a smaller dia. post or stump. when you sit it on the end of that post the center of the area touching the post will be up off of the post end flat surface. Then just hammer the high spot down to the post. move the panel over on the post a little and do it again and etc.


This is the same reason you don't really need a deep throat shrinker. After an edge is shrunk with a shrinker the inner metal can be shrunk with just a mallet on a flat round surface.
Shrinking an edge will raise an area inside the panel to a hump. flatten it out with a mallet. About as simple as it gets.

I'm not the best at explaining things sometime. But hope this makes sense.

By the way the post could have a slight hollow in it. This will let you go a little past to make a flatter area if you need to make one.

If a panel has enough crown in it to make it ridged you can shrink an area without any thing on the back side. Just using a mallet on the high area. Working around in a circle spiraling into the center.
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  #18  
Old 02-27-2010, 08:37 AM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Nice work Ross. Thanks for posting the build series. Noses are great projects even if for nothing but garage art.

I added your name to your signature.
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  #19  
Old 02-27-2010, 09:41 AM
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This is a cool project Ross.

It's nice to save the time on a simple buck but it is just not enough information for me . There is nothing on the sides to tell you what you need to do.

I can see getting the one side shaped but the other side has to be a exact match,or it will show.

I know David and others can do it but my skill level does not match theirs.

You gave us some really good detailed pictures

From this view, this is what I see.
nose5.jpg

The yellow area is high the blued areas are low and the red needs more shrinking.

I wouldn't touch the yellow area right now . The first thing I would do is some shrinking in the red area . Then I would do some stretching on a beater bag in the large blue area. Then blend it with your wheel.

That is just what I see and what I would do.


I would love to be able to get away with just building simple bucks like that. It would save a ton of time. I think I could get away with it on a one off piece but just on one of the sides. I just don't get how I could shape the other side and match perfectly.

I know you can it has been proven but I just don't get it. When reading a simple buck there must be at least some contour gauges or something.
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Last edited by jhnarial; 02-27-2010 at 09:43 AM.
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  #20  
Old 02-27-2010, 11:11 AM
David Gardiner David Gardiner is offline
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Johnny the thing about doing it this way is that you can shape the first side to the shape you want then providing you have a second 'blank' cut the same shape you can make the second side the same, I would use a few profile gauges to ensure that the shape is the same side to side. You I know like to make a FSP. either one will work. Designing a buck with every detail in it is a very hard thing to do where as making a simple buck and forming one section and working the other side from it is easier.
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Last edited by David Gardiner; 02-27-2010 at 01:03 PM. Reason: miss spelling
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