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  #1  
Old 09-16-2009, 03:15 AM
Bugrod Bugrod is offline
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Default Help with a bend

On my 39 Chevy I have to replace the bottom of the trunk and have come across a bit of a problem. How do I create a shrink in a metal that is too thick to use my shrinker or tuck shrink. I am trying to use hand tools or something simple. Here is a shot of my problem. The metal seem to be twice as thick as the surrounding metal. Would using heat and then bending it around a pipe be the answer?

Dave


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Old 09-16-2009, 03:43 AM
David Gardiner David Gardiner is offline
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Hello Dave, I am sorry but I cant make out what it is you are trying to shrink, the thick flange in the photo looks like the part which cant be seen should be stretched. please explain what part you are trying to shrink.
Whatever the part if you want to shrink it you can do it with heat, I have made Vintage car chassis from 5mm thick steel and shrunk and stretched the parts as needed so it can be done.

David
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Old 09-16-2009, 07:09 AM
Overkill Overkill is offline
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Default Shrinking

Needing to shrink a piece thicker than the shrinker could take (1/8" angle iron) - I just heated it up first. Worked great and didn't harm the shrinker. It gave me a controlled radius with no distortion that you would get from bending it around a pipe.

More complex shapes might not have the same results. John
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Old 09-16-2009, 10:23 AM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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I'm somewhat confused on exactly what part is that thick... I've got a 40 Roadmaster and don't recall any thick metal anywhere much less there.

At any rate, you could also just fabricate the piece out of two or more piece of lat stock welded at the outside corner and ground smooth.
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Old 09-16-2009, 12:43 PM
TheRodDoc TheRodDoc is offline
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The thick part in that picture is the weather strip or seal channel. it is part of the inner structure of the car. The sheet metal is welded to it.

EMS makes the whole replacement tailpan including this channel already welded to pan for only 280.00. Cant hand make one for that.

I have used three of them and they fit very well. They are die stamped high quality parts. They weld on just above the old welded seam.
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Old 09-16-2009, 01:36 PM
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Joe Andrews Joe Andrews is offline
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Welcome Richard! Glad to see you you posting here.
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Old 09-16-2009, 03:24 PM
Bugrod Bugrod is offline
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Thanks for all the replies, I guess I should have made the post when I was a little more awake and explained myself better.

Here is the area that is thicker than the sheet metal around it. The area that has the yellow area I assume has to be shrunk and the flenge that cannot be seen at the red arrow has to stretched. Am I correct? Rod Doc, I know that the panel is made and sold by many vendors. I am trying to build this car as a learning experience and really do not want to buy pre-made parts. IN the long run it maybe far cheaper in time and money to buy the parts but I will not feel the same satisfaction if I do so.


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Old 09-16-2009, 07:49 PM
TheRodDoc TheRodDoc is offline
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Thanks Joe.

Dave,

That weather strip channel (the 1/8" thick part) isn't part of the rear panel. it is a seperate part. it is the inner structure of the body.

If for some reason it is no good then it is by far eaiser to make it from three strips of 1/8 and weld together in a channel shape.

In your picture it looks very good shape. do not cut it out.

If it isn't bad just cut the sheet metal loose from it. The sheet metal is spot welded to it.
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Old 09-16-2009, 08:04 PM
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Welcome aboard Richard glad to see you have joined us.

David I also agree with Richard.Plus I don't see where it is bad in the picture.
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  #10  
Old 09-16-2009, 08:11 PM
Bugrod Bugrod is offline
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This is why I have to cut that area out. That whole area has been rotted out and earlier in its life, it was forced upward by being hit in the back and now the trunk lid hits the bottom of the channel area. I may be able to save the channel area and re-use when I redo the bottom area. BUt in case I cannot I will want to know if making it is an option






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