#21
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powder coat metal quality
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Hi Bill, I don't like powder coat for any metal less than .063 - too much variation from the heat cycles. I do use epoxy filler and sand that. And the coater can apply a primer that can be sanded, though their sanding is not likely to be very scientific/method-driven. I have to get the metal very good before powder prime, sand, and powder coat - but not as good as doing polished work ...
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#22
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[QUOTE=Peter Tommasini;148760][QUOTE=BTromblay;148757]
Bill.......... Yes......... for sure, but use a dolly that is very comparable with the shape, and try to lift the lows (if any ) next to any high by simply rolling the dolly away from the high spots, but if you feel that there is no major lows, then simply take the high down with the flipper without support and keep rubbing with the block, the blue color on the job will help you look and feel the over all shape Peter Quote:
Hi, It make sense, will give it a try. Thanks
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Bill Tromblay "A sign of a good machinist, is one who can fix his F$@& Ups" My mentor and friend, Gil Zietz Micro Metric Machine. |
#23
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Thank you for all the responses, it helped a lot. This is the finished part, all gas welding was done with Oxy/Hydrogen. The material is 3003 x .040" thick and the gas welding went very well. I welded closed the extra holes from rivet on patches with great success.
1.jpg 2.jpg A general rule for aircraft work, is not to remove more than 10% of the base material during a repair. This rule applies to treating corrosion or surface damage "scratches". 10% of .040" is .004" so I had to be mindful of this when I dressed down the weld. A great thing with gas welding is how easy it is to get full penetration compared to TIG welding. I was able to body file down the weld and damaged areas and not remove more than .002" to .003" and I'm not worried about cracks in my weld once the part is in service. My friend, Jack Charles stopped by the shop yesterday and he is a autobody/paint guy. He thought the finished surface was a very paintable surface. I'm still trying to learn how much metal work, verse paint shop work needs to be done. 3.jpg 4.jpg I have to make a new one now for another customer. Repairing this one, helps build my confidence, I cant wait. Thanks for looking, Bill
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Bill Tromblay "A sign of a good machinist, is one who can fix his F$@& Ups" My mentor and friend, Gil Zietz Micro Metric Machine. |
#24
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Great result Bill - it looks really good!
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#25
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Yes excellent result Bill. You need a lot of patience for metal finishing.
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David Hamer |
#26
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Metal finish...
I have had some really good results on steel with a friction disk. The say the disk work as good on aluminium but I have not tried, especially on .040. Fred26t
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Fred26T |
#27
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I saw someone here made a shrinking disc from wood to be used on aluminum to minimize marking.
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Steve ærugo nunquam dormit |
#28
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Hi,
I use a shrinking disk from time to time on aluminum. To prevent surface damage, I coat the disk and surface with soap. It still marks the surface, but good results. I have switched over to a wood shrink disk, that works very well and tool mark free. It takes a little longer to get the same amount of shrink, but worth it. B
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Bill Tromblay "A sign of a good machinist, is one who can fix his F$@& Ups" My mentor and friend, Gil Zietz Micro Metric Machine. |
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