#941
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.....this should be some good stuff.
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#942
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I spent a lot of time thinking and measuring before I cut my donor floor and firewall out too. Best way is to take your time for sure.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#943
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Time to gut the CTS. I cut out the windshield in one piece and saved it. Eventually, it will be used to make the rear window for the lift off top. It looks like it has a suitable curve to it.
Next I pulled the seats and console so I would have everything out of the way. The best and quickest way to pull a dash from a late model vehicle is to take it out the same way it went in; as a fully wired, plumbed and ducted unit. Unplug wiring connectors, remove about a dozen nuts and bolts and it slides out. The downside to doing it this way is that the assembly is pretty heavy. I managed to get it out of the car but needed my neighbor's help to get it up on the stand. If you're ever working on a late model vehicle and it takes more than a few minutes to remove a part, you're doing something wrong. Where ever possible, sub assemblies are used and it's usually quicker to remove them the same way. The only unexpected thing I found was that the front harness that goes into the engine bay and all the way to the underhood fuse box did not have a service connector at the firewall or the dash. It is one piece from the front, runs through the firewall, then laces into the various connections on the dash. Usually there would be a connector at the firewall. Anyway, I just pulled the harness through and removed it with the dash. The whole process of removing the windshield, seats, console and dash took about 4 hours. I think I can use most of the insulation and sound deadener from the CTS cabin. That would be a bonus.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#944
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Hell Jack you're not shy of working. I take my hat off to you. Thanks for the posts. Great Job.
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David Hamer |
#945
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I think I've got what I need. I taped off my cut lines and drilled out some spot welds.
I don't have the words to describe how much fun this was. 90 degrees and humid are the best I can do. Anyway, it's out. Next I'll remove the 49 floor. That will be much easier. I can take that out in small sections.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#946
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This is the left lower rail on the CTS. The plate setting to the right of it was sandwiched between the rail and the floor when it was welded together. I can't use the rail to reinforce the floor but I can use the plate. It is C channel shaped with flanges along the sides. I'll weld it back on the floor and it won't hang any lower than the floor since the floor is recessed where the rail was.
I had to make a temporary fixture on the 49 to mark the height and location at the center of the windshield before I started cutting out the firewall and floor. It can be removed and replaced easily while I'm working on fitting the new firewall. It is just some scrap conduit and a couple other bits. Most is out. I'll cut for the tunnel and start fitting up tomorrow.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#947
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I got the floor opening roughed in. I think I'm going to install the engine and trans before I put the CTS firewall & floor in so I had to remove the temporary bracing I put in and replace them with just one brace going directly across from side to side at the lower corners of the windshield. It will be much easier to get the mounts made and installed working from above. If I put the floor in first, Id have to weld in the mounts from below. It's just a lot easier to get the mounts done before the floor goes in. I had to modify my engine support to use it on the 49. At the ends of the support, there are plates that had rubber pads on them to rest on the upper rails of a late model car. I had to remove the rubber pads and cut some tubing in half lengthwise and tack them to the plates so it would set on the round tubes tying the towers to the firewall. I will use a cherry picker to get the engine in place, then transfer it to the support which is easily adjustable up and down, and can be slid forward or backward along the upper tubes. I can position the engine exactly where I need it and it will stay there until I can get the mounts made and installed.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#948
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Roadster
Nice job Jack!There is a Roadster that makes my socks roll up and down! JonT
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#949
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I started fitting the engine and transmission today. I need it up a little higher than the original 49 engine. I don't want anything hanging lower than the frame rails. I have plenty of room to put it anywhere I need to. Right now it's setting back about 3 inches too far.
I made a miscalculation somewhere along the way. The frame rails are too close to the engine mount perches. I need to notch the rails about 1/2" per side. First picture below is the left side, second is the right.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#950
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I hate when that happens...not that it's ever happened to me of course...
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Kerry Pinkerton |
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