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  #1271  
Old 05-09-2019, 11:13 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Originally Posted by billfunk29 View Post
I was surprised you could get the mandrel out with a bike cable. But I usually do steel.

Probably because of the extra clearance and thinner contact area of the 1/8" squares. They're thin and able to tip over when the pressure on the cable is released rather than have to be dragged out standing up. After I release the vice grip from the cable, about half of them slid out and the rest could be freed up by rattling them loose with a wooden mallet and light tugging on the cable.
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Last edited by Jack 1957; 05-09-2019 at 11:20 PM.
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  #1272  
Old 05-09-2019, 11:18 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Progress. I have the first bow trimmed and installed temporarily.

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  #1273  
Old 05-12-2019, 08:43 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I had originally intended to use three bows on the roof but after test fitting the second one and plotting out where the third would be, it didn't leave enough room for a rear window that would be proportionate to the car, or even useful.
I set the second bow back about 2 more inches and it looked right.
In the original renderings we left the roofline mostly rounded with the thought that I'd figure it out on the fly. I would prefer the rounded look, but it forces the rear window to be short and very low compared to the total height of the roof. It just looks wrong.
The last thing I ever want to do is incorporate something into the original build that appears to be a bandaid, a patch job to cover for a poor design.
I'm going to go ahead with only 2 bows and frame in the rear window. I'll lay some template cardboard over everything before welding and see how it looks.

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  #1274  
Old 05-12-2019, 10:15 PM
Don Papenburg Don Papenburg is offline
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Looking forward to see this car finished! WOW . Are you going to give the roof a thick padding ? Less than a Carson top but more than a factory top?
What does the fiber optic tube light up in your tail lights ?
Don
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  #1275  
Old 05-13-2019, 12:51 AM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Originally Posted by Don Papenburg View Post
Are you going to give the roof a thick padding ? Less than a Carson top but more than a factory top?
What does the fiber optic tube light up in your tail lights ?
Don
I will probably use 1/8" medium density foam padding on the roof. The fiber optic "tube" is actually a solid clear plastic rod that acts as the light. There is a tiny LED in the socket that it mounts to that illuminates it. Part of the daytime running lights.
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  #1276  
Old 05-13-2019, 04:43 AM
Larry4406 Larry4406 is offline
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Epic build!

I had assumed the top would be folding vs what appears to be a removable top.
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  #1277  
Old 05-15-2019, 08:21 PM
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I got the rear window framed in and made some radiused gusset plates for the corners. Large radius on the upper corners and much smaller on the lowers.

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I'm using latches from a 67 - 69 Camaro. I like them because they mount along the side rails and pull out from the sides. They aren't real big so they tuck away mostly out of sight.
I made mounting brackets from some 1/8" T6 plate. They are kind of tricky to get in place. They fit in where the side roof rails meet the front roof frameI have some 1/8" shims holding the front roof frame section up off of the windshield frame to simulate the weatherstrip that will be between them but I should have the weather strips in to be sure of the height. There is some adjustment in the latch but....

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Last edited by Jack 1957; 05-17-2019 at 09:34 PM.
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  #1278  
Old 05-28-2019, 10:36 AM
snedboy snedboy is offline
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It's been a few days since you last posted. I'm getting withdrawal symptoms. I hope everything is alright with you Jack
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  #1279  
Old 05-28-2019, 07:51 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Yardwork, pool, deck, house maintainance, etc, etc... Winters are brutal around here. I'll be back in the garage in a couple days.
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  #1280  
Old 06-13-2019, 08:06 PM
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I'm back. I got the last few gussets made for the roof and took everything to the welder so the roof is gone for a couple days. I want to do some of the finish work on the rear deck and deck lid while the roof is out of the way.


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If your edges look more like butchery than artistry, fear not. When I made the deck lid, I left plenty of room to fit into the opening since everything surrounding the deck lid is permanent and not adjustable. Now it's time to tighten it up. There was some wobble along some areas of the deck lid edges so I had welded 1/8" metal rod along the edges in those areas and smoothed them out so I wouldn't need to add duraglass on a very thin edge like that. The surrounding surfaces have a lot more surface area so I'll use Duraglass to bring the outer edges in to the deck lid.
First step is to scuff the primer lightly by hand with some 80grit. Then mask inside the jamb. Back tape the deck lid with the tape hanging out beyond the edge and close it. The additional tape will keep the Duraglass from sliding down into the opening.


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Duraglass itself is too thick to do what I want here. I won't be able to press out the bubbles down in the gaps. You can thin it down by adding about 10% fiberglass resin. Mix it thoroughly before adding the hardener. Spread it out and let it run down into the gap. Don't do too much area at a time, I need to catch it just as it starts to kick. Too soon and it is still soft and will drag along with the blade. Too hard and it won't cut.


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I use two single edge blades and a scrap of 3/16" steel with some vice grips holding the whole mess together to cut the gaps in.


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Cover the gap pushing down lightly. Since the Duraglass has been slightly thinned it will sag down along the verticle surface of the opening and stick like it was welded. It has a very strong bond.


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Watch it closely and check it by touching it with your finger. If it sticks to your finger, it's still too soft. When it starts hardening, run the double blades through using the edge of the deck lid as your guide. If you caught it at the right time it should cut easily and leave a thin strip in the middle. Use a small pocket screw driver to lift the strip out and let the Duraglass finish hardening and move on to the next section. The cut will be straight and clean but it will need additional flilling and sanding further down into the opening.


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Last edited by Jack 1957; 06-18-2019 at 10:53 PM.
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