#491
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It's an illusion thankfully. It's on the lift and doesn't sit perfectly level.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#492
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It's looking great Kerry. I am happy to see you back to work on this car. You were one of my first metal shaping guru's and this project was instrumental in developing my enthusiasm. Thank you!
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Will |
#493
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Oh, I see what you are talking about Neil. The right side bottom does indeed need a bit of reshaping. It is on my list. My fuel pump died and I really, REALLY need to get the car running and outside on a level surface so I can get some perspective. I'll make a comprehensive list of all the smaller things to do. I know the door gaps need a good bit of work too. Thanks Will.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#494
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Congrats!! I was hoping that you would get fired up to finish the roadster.
I thought you had A/C in the shop? Crank it up and get er done. Lookin good Steve
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping |
#495
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The AC does a good job on the main room but when you open up the lift room where the roadster is it's just about a wash with running the big fans...except when welding. WHen you shut the fan off, it gets hot in a hurry. I got the 4 corners welded in today. I'm not really happy with the quality of the work but it will be fine since nothing will be visible. Now I have to work on the hinges and build the decklid structure.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#496
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great job on this project though kerry, if i wore a hat i would take it off
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Neil |
#497
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Plugging along. Decided to build the decklid structure. This is the blank that will ultimately become the skin:
I sheared some 2 1/2" wide strips of .063 and turned a 1" flange. The skin will wrap around the flat piece. When I'm finding the center, I use a metric tape...easy to divide by 2I then marked off 5cm marks from each end for reference while shrinking. I used the Marchant clones initially but they are on the other side of the shop. So I ended up using my stand mounted Lancasters with Gitzit stippled dies. Not quite as fast or smooth as the big clones but a lot easier to move to the work for trial and fit. These angles have to curve in both directions. And here they are trimmed and clamped. And welded. Obviously, I will have to trim for the proper gap but I still have some work to do on the structure. I'm planning on using these Cobra hinges I was given. The profile was off but I was able to correct it with some finesse work on the press. They are chrome plated steel so as long as I don't get carried away and protect the chrome, I should be able to tweek as required. They already have a left side/right side bevel that looks to be almost perfect for the arch of the tulip panel. (I think that is what the panel in front of the decklid is called). Which leads to a question. My brake is a crappy import and I have not been successful making a nice tight radius on angles. What kind of radius should body openings have around doors, decklid, etc?
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#498
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I see 1/16" or .063" routinely, on hand made, coach-built auto bodies.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#499
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Had a few hours and decided to rough out the decklid skin. Interesting piece that was harder than I though it would be. The contour is different top to bottom quite a bit.
Wheel work in the center and some shrinking along the edge. More at the top than the bottom. It easily passes Kent White's 'two finger' test. That is, with very little pressure it lays down as it should. I'll shift gears and get the inner structure finished and the hinges working. In order to get the gaps set correctly at 1/8", I'll need a 3/16 gap to the opening and I'll need a rigid location in order to do that. Then I'll do the final shaping on the skin and start the wrap.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#500
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Hey Kerry , good to see you going at it again.A 1/8 inch. gap in bare metal will close up quite a bit once you add primer and paint. You may want to open it up a bit.Bob.
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Robert |
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