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  #11  
Old 08-01-2018, 10:32 AM
Payupv8 Payupv8 is offline
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Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
You need to bring them right up and even as possible before going any further. Remember to push out harder with the dolly from the inside to raise it than you are hammering from the outside.
Ok thanks for the reply Iam gonna cut a hole so I can get bettter access or maybe make a tool to get be hind there better it's to awkward with my hand trying to get in there and hold a dolly and push up at the same time.
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  #12  
Old 08-01-2018, 08:08 PM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Eric
just to help you do the less work possible on that patch panel this is the way I would do it
1 the cut MUST BE perfect! and I mean....... Perfect NO gaps
2 the tack needs to be a lot smaller and closer together only from one side to the other (not middle, front back ,and so on)
3 let the tack cooled down between each one
4 planish each tack COLD till very smooth
5 start your welding from one side and continue till fully welded, if you blow a hole do not stop and try to filled,( go back to it after the weld is finished and it has cool down)
6 planish the weld with a proper shape dolly and hammer with a flat face, and JUST stretch the welded area, feel the area as you working on it and adjust accordingly ,with an on and off dolly procedure hit any highs down to any lows before anything else is done. use the flipper(preferably with teeth) to smooth things off.
7 if any high spots are left AFTER finishing use a gas torch and do some hot shrinking BUT!!!!!..... DO NOT.... get the material red hot, just blue will do the job (as seen on handbuilt dvd N 10
hope this can help you
Peter
PS using this method I have welded panel much much bigger than yours successfully with no problems
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg

Making Monaro Quarter panel:
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Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 08-01-2018 at 08:11 PM.
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  #13  
Old 08-01-2018, 10:58 PM
Payupv8 Payupv8 is offline
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Peter thanks for the help! I do see some of the things I did wrong now with this patch and why I have created so much work for myself with the tips you gave me. My fit up wasn't the best, but better then I have done before so I am improving but I did planish my tacks but only to get the two panels to line back up and I made my tacks about an inch apart I am having a really hard time getting my hand inside the door frame to planish the tacks smooth. so Iam thinking I'll cut a small opening into the door structure so I can get back there better and planish the tack until they are smooth then I will mig the the opening I make back up. So I guess I need to planish after each tack and planish them till they are smooth Iam still learning but trying to improve on everything I do, do you have any tips of how to get a fit up without any gaps?
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  #14  
Old 08-03-2018, 05:51 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Best is the prepare the patch fully, then cut it size you want and then lay over the area that needs to be replaced. Then just scribe around the patch and cut the old metal out. I use a maker where the scribe line is going to go, then scribe through the marker line to show it up clearer.
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  #15  
Old 08-03-2018, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Best is the prepare the patch fully, then cut it size you want and then lay over the area that needs to be replaced. Then just scribe around the patch and cut the old metal out. I use a maker where the scribe line is going to go, then scribe through the marker line to show it up clearer.
That's how I have been doing it but as everything goes it takes practice to get better at it
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  #16  
Old 08-03-2018, 05:46 PM
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Heres where Iam at now having a hard time getting the weld raised up where it's circled there's absolutely no access

IMG_1868.jpg

IMG_1867.jpg

IMG_1866.jpg
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  #17  
Old 08-04-2018, 07:03 AM
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You need a high crown dolly to push up hard directly under the weld while carefully tapping each side of the weld with a square faced hammer with the edge of it as close to the weld as possible from the outside is how I do it. Only light accurate taps needed.
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  #18  
Old 08-04-2018, 10:05 AM
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Thanks I'll try that I have been mainly using a low crown dolly to match the shape of the door but I'll try a higher crown later tonight when I work on the door I have a couple high spots I need to go over with my shrinking disc
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  #19  
Old 08-08-2018, 07:40 AM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Payupv8 View Post
Heres where Iam at now having a hard time getting the weld raised up where it's circled there's absolutely no access

Attachment 48241

Attachment 48242

Attachment 48243

Simply work out where there is more access and put the weld there, even if it means that the patch is bigger .. some time when the panel is bigger the heat spread is grater so less distortion occur, I have noticed that you turned all the edges prior to weld the patch in.....do not do that simply have at least one edge flat so you can run out any fullness, then... turn the edge by hand by doing this a good amount of any fullness left with be drag out from turning the edge
Another way you could solve the problem of access would be to turn back up the existing door edge up a little weld the new patch in with no edge made
that will allowed you to planish the weld with a spoon dolly, then simply turn the new edge at the same angle of the existing one, weld ,and turn the whole lot together back at right angle and over
Peter
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Metalshaping tools and dvds
www.handbuilt.net.au

Metalshaping clip on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg

Making Monaro Quarter panel:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM

Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 08-08-2018 at 07:51 AM.
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  #20  
Old 08-15-2018, 02:29 PM
Payupv8 Payupv8 is offline
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Here's where Iam at now it's better. But I have learned a lot along the way I have to move on now with the patch. The door will get skimmed with a little filler. I will do things different next time and I hope to see better results next time with less work

IMG_1889.jpg

IMG_1890.jpg
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