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  #1171  
Old 03-19-2019, 08:07 PM
Just Lookin Just Lookin is offline
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Question Magnet stuck to Stainless?

Jack,

You have a magnet stuck to your Stainless bumper. I assume it is stuck to a bracket behind the bumper.
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  #1172  
Old 03-19-2019, 08:53 PM
kcoffield kcoffield is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
I cut the casting gates off the tail lights so I could check the fit. They are good so I rough ground the welds and let them set for now. I need to finish the bumper first.
Tail light buckets and bumper look great Jack. Lot's of finish work to be done I'm sure but they certainly look the part.

Best,
Kelly
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  #1173  
Old 03-19-2019, 08:58 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just Lookin View Post
Jack,

You have a magnet stuck to your Stainless bumper....

Right. Somewhere in the text I had mistakenly said that the sheet was 304. It isn't, it's 430 which is common for automotive trim parts. It's also magnetic. I remembered as soon as I set the magnetic base on the bumper and it stuck.
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Last edited by Jack 1957; 03-19-2019 at 11:22 PM.
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  #1174  
Old 03-19-2019, 09:25 PM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Amazing work Jack. I'm filing this away in case I decide to have bumpers on the roadster.
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  #1175  
Old 03-19-2019, 11:59 PM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Hi Jack
stainless steel is usually very hard to work with
But I must say you have done a splendid job on the rear bar
Well done!
Peter
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  #1176  
Old 03-20-2019, 04:44 AM
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123pugsy 123pugsy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
Right. Somewhere in the text I had mistakenly said that the sheet was 304. It isn't, it's 430 which is common for automotive trim parts. It's also magnetic. I remembered as soon as I set the magnetic base on the bumper and it stuck.

When we weld 430, we always see a color difference at the weld. Hopefully, that's not the case here.
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  #1177  
Old 03-20-2019, 09:03 AM
billfunk29 billfunk29 is offline
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Default 430

430 thermal expansion is only 60% of 304. Should have helped a lot with the weld distortion. Not that you would ever drive this through the salt of a Minnesota winter, but I had 400 series Stainless (Can't recall exact alloy) gas tank in a year round driver. It showed surface rust after several years. Especially on the welds.
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  #1178  
Old 03-20-2019, 05:12 PM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
I welded up a few low spots and ground all the welds. Next I used a DA sander with 80 grit to start smoothing things out. I had to bump a few low spots up also.
I still have two larger areas to build up with weld. They're at the outer corners on the bottom where the panels meet the lower tubing. That should be the last of the welding.
By the way, go back to the previous page and look at the second picture in post #1167. What's wrong with that picture???? Why didn't anyone catch it?

Attachment 51919
Jack, I assume you are talking about the magnetic holder on the stainless ??? I just assumed you had a chunk of mild steel on the other side of the stainless. Besides that who is going to question you………….. you are like a customizing God (making your own tail lights, bumpers and who knows what next)…………. this is 10 times better than any build series I’ve ever seen in any book. Thanks for letting all of us be the fly on the wall. ~ John Buchtenkirch
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  #1179  
Old 03-20-2019, 05:15 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Well said John B

Steve
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  #1180  
Old 03-25-2019, 08:56 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Time to start the polishing process but we're way far from picking up a buffer. 90% of this can be done quicker by prepping with a sander. I use this electric DA (dual action sander) that can also be locked to function as a single action sander. I use the electric one so I don't have to listen to the compressor all day.
This process takes some time but it will get the best results. Stainless is tough stuff stuff. I have a twine buffing wheel that cuts like crazy but it's still a lot of work. Stainless fights back. It doesn't just lay down like aluminum. The best way to get a smooth finish is progressively finer grits of sandpaper.
After I ground the welds with a stone wheel, I smoothed them out some with a grinder and 40 grit discs. From there it's all done with the DA.

First round was 80 grit to smooth out the rough lines left by grinding. The process I use is what I've found to work best for me. It isn't written on stone tablets, I just do it this way and always get good results. After each round with a coarser grit, the next round will be a little finer grit and so on. If I start off with 80 grit, then follow with 150 grit, I need to make sure that every trace of scratches from the 80 grit is gone before moving on to 320 grit. The reason this is important is that if I move on to 320 and find that there are still some 80 scratches, it will be very difficult to knock those scratches down with 320. So, the key to doing each round only once is to be absolutely sure that each round erases the scratches left from the previous round. If you were to use a SA (single action) sander on all the grits it will be nearly impossible to tell if you have erased all traces of the previous round. It's really difficult to see the difference between the two sanding marks left behind.

To eliminate this problem, I alternate between rounds. I'll do 80 grit in SA then 150 grit in DA (dual action, orbital) then 320 in SA, etc.. It is very easy to see the difference between the two sanding patterns. If I'm using SA with 150, I am going to eliminate every single DA mark on the part. Then I would follow that with a round of 320 with DA and eliminate evry SA mark. Continue to 1,000 grit. If you use this simple method it will be easier to finish the part and not have to backtrack and remove scratches that you missed.

In the picture below, I am working from left to right using 320 DA to knock down the previous round of 150 SA. You can see how easy it is to tell what has been sanded with the 320 and what hasn't.

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In the picture below, I'm working from right to left using 600 SA to knock down the previous round of 320 DA. There's no way to miss a spot when sanding. The sanded and unsanded areas are obvious.

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Sometime during the process above I was starting to get burned out with the sanding so I took a break and made the foam patterns for the side view mirror stands and the backup sensor grommets for the rear bumper. I sent them to Kelly to pour them in aluminum.

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Last edited by Jack 1957; 04-02-2020 at 09:48 AM.
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