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  #1261  
Old 04-16-2020, 06:08 AM
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Oil? Wax? Acid?

Leftover spray paint.
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  #1262  
Old 04-16-2020, 04:33 PM
steve.murphy steve.murphy is offline
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I Would be concerned about paint issues resulting from WD use. What do you guys use to get it off when getting ready for paint?
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  #1263  
Old 04-16-2020, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
On the acid removal. When you think it's all gone, use a wire wheel and watch how much dust flies. That's still the residue you're seeing. I wire wheel all surfaces before scuffing with 80 grit.
I not treating rust with it, only preserving clean steel until painting.
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  #1264  
Old 04-16-2020, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris_Hamilton View Post
Marcus if you plan on using an epoxy primer when you do begin body and paint work on it, you absolutely need to neutralize any phosphoric acid treatment as epoxy does not bond well at all to an acid film. There is a lot of confusion about this as many interchange acid etch primers with modern epoxy primers, when in fact they are two completely different products and in no way related. Epoxy is so superior to acid etch there is really no comparison. Epoxy when cured is essentially impervious to solvents brake fluid etc. Acid etch you can wipe off with lacquer thinner.
A true epoxy primer does not and will not bond to an acid film. It works best over clean 80 grit scratched metal. If you do use a phosphoric acid treatment the correct way to neutralize it is to first use the product as it's intended. Then when you are done, re-wet the panel keeping it wet with the product for several minutes. Don't let it dry. Rinse with water while it is still wet. I always then follow that by using a DA/Orbital sander with 80 grit, putting a good scratch pattern on the steel and removing any film left by the process.
Personally I would use WD-40 or something similar as temporary rust prevention, rather than any phosphoric acid treatment. Just to avoid the hassle later. Acid treatments should really be considered a last resort, not something your now pristine body needs in the least.
Here is a video comparing the bond of epoxy over Ospho versus properly prepared steel. The epoxy used in the vid, is what I consider the best epoxy available in the US, Southern Polyurethanes (SPI) Epoxy.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yA8q4K-_Bo
Thank you for the insight. All my steel has already been through a citric acid bath years ago so will have the same problem already. A full sanding and surface prep before painting will have to take place anyway by the painter. This is the only part of the project I hope to farm out.

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Originally Posted by Fargoman View Post
Have a look at SW2 from PPC

I know Slyfox on Ozrodders has used it for 10 years on his project.
Thank you. I had a look at that and looks to be more for keeping steel bare without any future painting or only other paint over rust products.
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  #1265  
Old 04-16-2020, 07:13 PM
hillman hillman is offline
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Marcus
I would try Gibbs Lube if you want go a year without paint, it has no bad shit in it and can be painted over.
Worth looking up and reading about.

http://www.phenixindustries.com.au/g...and-australia/

This link is just one place to buy, I think there are cheaper places than this.
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Last edited by hillman; 04-17-2020 at 03:08 AM. Reason: spellin and spellin
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  #1266  
Old 04-16-2020, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
I not treating rust with it, only preserving clean steel until painting.

Yes, understood. Just try as I describe when it's time to remove it for painting. After you think you've got it all off, grab a wire wheel in a drill, whatever, and see if any dust flies. If it does, that's the left over residue.
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  #1267  
Old 04-17-2020, 02:56 AM
steve.murphy steve.murphy is offline
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I asked about the paint because I heard some paint shops won’t even allow one can of WD 40 in their building and I have fought fisheyes before. Very frustrating.
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  #1268  
Old 04-17-2020, 05:18 AM
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Marcus
I would try Gibbs Lube if you want go a year without paint, it has no bad shit in it and can be painted over.
Worth looking up and reading about.

http://www.phenixindustries.com.au/g...and-australia/

This link is just one place to buy, I think there are cheaper places than this.
I have heard good things about Gibbs from those preserving natural patina. Didn't know we could get it here. Thanks for the link.
I found a few sellers on eBay and including postage down to $26.50 a can if you buy 6. I have no idea how many I would need to do the cab and chassis and later on the bed?
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Last edited by Gojeep; 04-17-2020 at 05:34 AM.
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  #1269  
Old 04-17-2020, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Yes, understood. Just try as I describe when it's time to remove it for painting. After you think you've got it all off, grab a wire wheel in a drill, whatever, and see if any dust flies. If it does, that's the left over residue.
Seems like a new, unused wheel would be a requirement there.



Gojeep, we use Picklex20 at the shop. Works quick and if used on metal clean enough to paint, it gives a nice soft glow to the metal which reduces glare and takes lovely photos. By the way, I still have not been back to the piece on which I intend to try your technique that I asked about. So no report. Don't hesitate to ask if you wish to see different photo edits.

Have a good day, both of you.
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  #1270  
Old 04-17-2020, 12:45 PM
Chris_Hamilton Chris_Hamilton is offline
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Originally Posted by drivejunk View Post
Seems like a new, unused wheel would be a requirement there.



Gojeep, we use Picklex20 at the shop. Works quick and if used on metal clean enough to paint, it gives a nice soft glow to the metal which reduces glare and takes lovely photos. By the way, I still have not been back to the piece on which I intend to try your technique that I asked about. So no report. Don't hesitate to ask if you wish to see different photo edits.

Have a good day, both of you.
Picklex would still need to come off before anything is applied. I've had to do several where the metal guys used it before it got to me. If it isn't and epoxy is applied paint failure is somewhere down the road. I've redone for customers two cars where the paint peels off in sheets over the metal treatment. One was 2 months old, the other was about a year old.
It's a pain to take off it, or any acid treatment for that matter and I don't understand why metal guys feel the need to do it. All of the various metal treatments say it doesn't need to be removed but all the paint manufacturers say it does.
There is so much snake oil marketing out there (not specifically referring to picklex) but they are all phosphoric acid based including Picklex
Picklex marketers don't even know or understand paint chemistry because they specifically say that self etch primer can't be used, when that is the one type of primer that can used over a phosphoric acid treatment without rinsing.
Bottom line is if you plan on using a quality modern automotive epoxy primer, the only thing you want to apply it over is clean 80 grit machine sanded(DA/Orbital) steel. 180 grit if you are working with aluminum. Any metal treatment that is not removed will result in paint failure at some point down the road.

https://picklex20.com/wp-content/upl...icklex-201.pdf
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Last edited by Chris_Hamilton; 04-17-2020 at 12:47 PM.
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