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  #1  
Old 11-28-2018, 01:20 PM
Payupv8 Payupv8 is offline
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Default Tips and tricks for making patterns and templates

Iam looking for tips and tricks to get a little faster in making my patterns and templates and correctly marking details such as body lines and how to correctly measure them. I feel that I spend a lot of time making and remaking my patterns because I second guess my self and the replacement part you make is only as good as your pattern I feel like pattern making gets overlooked a lot, maybe Iam over thinking it but there is a ton of knowledge on this site so maybe someone could give me a break down of how they would mark and transfer all the details/body lines kind of a step by step? Thanks
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Old 11-28-2018, 03:25 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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I Don't fully understand your p[roblems, but after teaching a few workshops on this, I have learned:
"Never time to do it right but always time to do it over."
Having the patience to make good patterns is one big key. I have made patterns accurate enough to get .001" gaps in polished 2024, on Formula I wings. But it takes time and patience.
Thought is always faster than the physical body.
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Old 11-28-2018, 04:19 PM
Payupv8 Payupv8 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystallographic View Post
I Don't fully understand your p[roblems, but after teaching a few workshops on this, I have learned:
"Never time to do it right but always time to do it over."
Having the patience to make good patterns is one big key. I have made patterns accurate enough to get .001" gaps in polished 2024, on Formula I wings. But it takes time and patience.
Thought is always faster than the physical body.
Kent I guess what Iam trying to say is that Iam second guessing myself after I make my patterns so I end up making them again and it takes me longer to produce the part. Is there a method to correctly marking detail lines from let’s say quarter panel that your going to make and then transferring those marks to the metal that your going to use to reproduce the quarter panel and having all those lines match the rest of the car? Sometimes when I make a part one of the detail lines is off but I think it’s more me messing up and putting the line in the wrong spot and not using the info I have taken down on my pattern
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Old 11-28-2018, 04:52 PM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Payupv8 View Post
Kent I guess what Iam trying to say is that Iam second guessing myself after I make my patterns so I end up making them again and it takes me longer to produce the part. Is there a method to correctly marking detail lines from let’s say quarter panel that your going to make and then transferring those marks to the metal that your going to use to reproduce the quarter panel and having all those lines match the rest of the car? Sometimes when I make a part one of the detail lines is off but I think it’s more me messing up and putting the line in the wrong spot and not using the info I have taken down on my pattern
Erik
A pattern when transfer it to the blank it's a indication of the amount of material needed and all the details on the panel that you are making, usually those details do not change if the panel is relatively flat ..BUT... once the shape in question is more bulbous the details marked on the blank from the start can change, simply because of the stretching of the material when blocked and wheeled .I had details changing up to 5 mm .So,I found that the fix for this problem is to cut a strip of proper paper pattern about 20 mm wide, and from top to bottom of the panel for length. lay it on the original panel, hold it down with some tape properly and mark with a sharp pencil the details again,
Do this by having the paper strips about 200 mm apart , then simply put the strips back on the new panel,(same spot) mark the new details on the panel that you are making and go from there . In some cases you might need profiles. (cut them out from either 5 mm thick MBF or 1.2 ally) these ''profiles'' are started by using a profile gauge (big, regular ,or small) transfer the shape on to your material, mark it and cut the material ,then use a file to get it spot on. In this case also you need to mark the position of your profile on to the old panel,and have them space out about 120/150 mm apart, then repeat the process over the new panel
Peter
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Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 11-28-2018 at 04:59 PM.
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  #5  
Old 11-28-2018, 05:36 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Payupv8 View Post
Kent I guess what Iam trying to say is that Iam second guessing myself after I make my patterns so I end up making them again and it takes me longer to produce the part. Is there a method to correctly marking detail lines from let’s say quarter panel that your going to make and then transferring those marks to the metal that your going to use to reproduce the quarter panel and having all those lines match the rest of the car? Sometimes when I make a part one of the detail lines is off but I think it’s more me messing up and putting the line in the wrong spot and not using the info I have taken down on my pattern

Yes, absolutely.
Paper patterns allow:
1) overall size
2) locations of holes, seams, hems, fasteners, louvers, and body lines - by the "rubbing" technique - Indiana Jones, getting the info from the ancient stellae ... remember?
3) locations of shrinks, and how much, and how deep to shrink.
4) locations of stretch areas, and how much.
5) analyzing the relationship between the stretch and shrink areas can further fine-tune the choices of how much, and how much in which location.
Remember that you are being a topographer - making maps of geography, in detail, so that you can find your way with the metal. Maybe helpful watching a dressmaker lay out the patterns on a person, cutting, fitting, marking the "artwork" and the darts (shrinks), where the material needs to be "taken up" or reduced in area. Same thing, really.

(okay PETER T ..... ---GO!)
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Last edited by crystallographic; 11-28-2018 at 05:40 PM.
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  #6  
Old 11-28-2018, 05:52 PM
Payupv8 Payupv8 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Tommasini View Post
Erik
A pattern when transfer it to the blank it's a indication of the amount of material needed and all the details on the panel that you are making, usually those details do not change if the panel is relatively flat ..BUT... once the shape in question is more bulbous the details marked on the blank from the start can change, simply because of the stretching of the material when blocked and wheeled .I had details changing up to 5 mm .So,I found that the fix for this problem is to cut a strip of proper paper pattern about 20 mm wide, and from top to bottom of the panel for length. lay it on the original panel, hold it down with some tape properly and mark with a sharp pencil the details again,
Do this by having the paper strips about 200 mm apart , then simply put the strips back on the new panel,(same spot) mark the new details on the panel that you are making and go from there . In some cases you might need profiles. (cut them out from either 5 mm thick MBF or 1.2 ally) these ''profiles'' are started by using a profile gauge (big, regular ,or small) transfer the shape on to your material, mark it and cut the material ,then use a file to get it spot on. In this case also you need to mark the position of your profile on to the old panel,and have them space out about 120/150 mm apart, then repeat the process over the new panel
Peter
Peter thanks that’s kind of what I was looking for. I appreciate all the info, Iam just looking to improve/get a littler quicker and build a little more confidence. It seems like the panels Iam making don’t really have much shape but have a few detail body lines so I am just trying to figure out how to make sure that I am accurately marking them on the pattern to transfer them over to the metal, I could be over thinking it and just making it harder then I needs to be.
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  #7  
Old 11-28-2018, 09:13 PM
BTromblay BTromblay is offline
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Hi,

This might help for making simple profile gauges, to copy your panel.

http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=18307

Bill
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  #8  
Old 11-29-2018, 04:02 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Hi Eric,

I use templates made from 3mm MDF, they cut super easy with Snips and adjustments are made quick and easy.
On panels with shape, I use the needle style profile guages.
If I measure the places for swages , body lines or even door skins, I use a Dress Makers Tape measure, you can stick them on with tape and accurately measure all points. Or you can even just use Masking tape which you can also use for all your marks.
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  #9  
Old 12-02-2018, 03:46 PM
Payupv8 Payupv8 is offline
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IMG_2061.jpg

So how would I go about marking the return to accurately reproduce it? Should I mark the middle of the return and use that as the line to make my bend on?
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Old 12-02-2018, 04:54 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Payupv8 View Post
Attachment 50252

So how would I go about marking the return to accurately reproduce it? Should I mark the middle of the return and use that as the line to make my bend on?

If you make up a test piece of accurate duplicate material and lay out your theoretical set points with a scribe, then you can make your bend and find out what your setback is - or identify where the choices are for that job.
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