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  #11  
Old 11-21-2018, 08:00 PM
Kerry Pinkerton's Avatar
Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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As I said Rob, there are lots of ways to do most everything in metal shaping. I described one, Peter another. There are more. If you ask 10 metal shapers the best way to do a thing, you'll probably get at least 12 answers... Do a search for 'Tuck Puck'.

Chose an approach that works for you.

Peter, if you watch the video, all we are doing at the front is creating a 'lock' to keep the tuck from slipping away. The rest of the hammer blows start at the back and work forward alternating side to side with a chisel point plastic hammer. Wray Schelin taught me (and everyone else on MetalMeet in the early days) this technique and it works well for me. I believe it is still the technique he teaches although I also understand he uses a dished stump a good bit these days. Some of the guys who have taken his classes can comment if they choose.

As far as the way thumbnail dies work, I agree completely but the difference is that the face of the die keeps the tuck from flattening out as it is crushed in the 'smile' area of the thumbnail. Dimpling in the front of the tuck keeps it from just flattening out when you hit it at the back. At least in my experience...which is considerably less than yours.

I have never hammered a tuck over using this technique but have seen some folks who did. Like most things in shaping or swinging an axe, you need to be able to hit where you want. That takes practice and in metal shaping, practice makes scrap frequently.

I will occasionally use a technique similar to what you describe because I have a bunch of post dollys but generally, I prefer to hammer on wood or plastic.

I don't tuck shrink much these days, but sometimes, especially if the panel is too large to get into a machine, it's easier to put a shrink exactly where you want it with a tuck.
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  #12  
Old 11-21-2018, 09:49 PM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton View Post
As I said Rob, there are lots of ways to do most everything in metal shaping. I described one, Peter another. There are more. If you ask 10 metal shapers the best way to do a thing, you'll probably get at least 12 answers... Do a search for 'Tuck Puck'.

Chose an approach that works for you.

Peter, if you watch the video, all we are doing at the front is creating a 'lock' to keep the tuck from slipping away. The rest of the hammer blows start at the back and work forward alternating side to side with a chisel point plastic hammer. Wray Schelin taught me (and everyone else on MetalMeet in the early days) this technique and it works well for me. I believe it is still the technique he teaches although I also understand he uses a dished stump a good bit these days. Some of the guys who have taken his classes can comment if they choose.

As far as the way thumbnail dies work, I agree completely but the difference is that the face of the die keeps the tuck from flattening out as it is crushed in the 'smile' area of the thumbnail. Dimpling in the front of the tuck keeps it from just flattening out when you hit it at the back. At least in my experience...which is considerably less than yours.

I have never hammered a tuck over using this technique but have seen some folks who did. Like most things in shaping or swinging an axe, you need to be able to hit where you want. That takes practice and in metal shaping, practice makes scrap frequently.

I will occasionally use a technique similar to what you describe because I have a bunch of post dollys but generally, I prefer to hammer on wood or plastic.

I don't tuck shrink much these days, but sometimes, especially if the panel is too large to get into a machine, it's easier to put a shrink exactly where you want it with a tuck.

Kerry
Even though I could argue with the term (''what work for you'' ) when learning,... or answers, or tools used). I am not going too, I will not make any more comments on this subject (some members) might not like it?
All I can say is.. Just keep doing and showing what YOU have been taught doing, (fine with me )
.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ..................

I will do,..... what I have been taught doing from the age of 14, from Italian tradesman at Scaglietti's first, after that from English tradesman that worked at Rolls Royce, Aston Martin, and others.
And MORE TO THE POINT ...what still is been done now days at .. Carrozzeria Nova Rinoshente (Italy), Brandoli (Italy) ,
Jeff Moss (England), David Gardener (England), Auto Craft (England), also in France, a few good restoration in California and trough out the US, just to mention a few.......

PLEASE NOTE..........
BY ALL MEANS........I am not putting any good or bad tickets on ANY ONE... I WOULD NOT DARE... it's not up to me. I am only stating some facts......

I hope that I have not offended anybody... I have no intentions.... Cheers
Peter
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Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 11-21-2018 at 11:46 PM.
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  #13  
Old 11-22-2018, 03:38 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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It's interesting what passion is going on about choosing the way Rob has to go.
Rob should take a piece of paper and wrap an object again - the fender from the motorcycle so the paper does not bend. If he can understand where the fibers go on the paper, he can advance in sheet metal shaping.
Sometimes you need to slow down and think more than do. You must feel it. It's a love of no violence.
From Peter I remember the basic advice that the sheet must be still soft. I try to avoid a situation where it could harden the sheet.

Here is a song about Cadillac. How one's grandfather worked in the company Cadillac. He did not do enough to buy it.He stole the parts and assembled it at home. The reframe of the song is: It has one side with a round and a second side with a plaque. Get out of the monster and tell the year of production. It did not succeed in one year - the body changed its shape. Is not that from the production?

Not Englisch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvALv75ICBI

Try Rob, slow down and think a lot. Or come to the advice of a friend who is blaming you for mistakes. I'm doing it too, we're talking about that. We bind each other, but the result is great.
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Last edited by Jaroslav; 11-22-2018 at 05:18 AM.
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  #14  
Old 11-23-2018, 04:45 AM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RB86 View Post
https://youtu.be/FIoge_zNREo

I made another video showing the progress on my fender
And one of my problems with the tuck shrinking.

Thank you all for your input.
Rob,
Here's some pictures, it might help you and save you some time in guessing. Follow the writing on the pictures and on the pattern and you should be right. The sequence should be from start to finish. Let me know how you go.
P.S Please do yourself a favor and change that blocking hammer you are using because the one you're using, it's only good to break real walnuts.LOL
Cheers
Peter
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Metalshaping tools and dvds
www.handbuilt.net.au

Metalshaping clip on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg

Making Monaro Quarter panel:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM

Last edited by route56wingnut; 11-23-2018 at 06:31 AM.
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  #15  
Old 11-23-2018, 06:51 AM
RB86 RB86 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Tommasini View Post
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Rob,
Here's some pictures, it might help you and save you some time in guessing. Follow the writing on the pictures and on the pattern and you should be right. The sequence should be from start to finish. Let me know how you go.
P.S Please do yourself a favor and change that blocking hammer you are using because the one you're using, it's only good to break real walnuts.LOL
Cheers
Peter
Peter I can't thank you enough. I REALLY appreciate it!!!
I'll order a proper blocking hammer from you without a doubt. Can't wait to try it this way. Thank you
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  #16  
Old 11-23-2018, 08:09 AM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RB86 View Post
Peter I can't thank you enough. I REALLY appreciate it!!!
I'll order a proper blocking hammer from you without a doubt. Can't wait to try it this way. Thank you
Glad to be of some help
Peter
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Metalshaping tools and dvds
www.handbuilt.net.au

Metalshaping clip on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg

Making Monaro Quarter panel:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM
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  #17  
Old 11-23-2018, 09:04 AM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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Great stuff, Peter. Thanks again.
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  #18  
Old 11-23-2018, 09:11 AM
tom walker tom walker is offline
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Peter, I like the way you presented the info with written instructions in the image. It was a big help in understanding the process. Hope to see you next fall in Oblong.
Thanx,
Tom Walker
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  #19  
Old 11-23-2018, 10:30 AM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Nicely done Peter! I couldn't have done it better myself
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  #20  
Old 11-23-2018, 01:37 PM
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MP&C MP&C is offline
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Here's a video of tuck shrinking that I filmed last time Peter was at the shop..


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plpfX1aPAI0



If you notice as he progresses outward, the mouth of the tuck doesn't really open back up, it maintains its same height and width at the opening. The hammer has been relieved/radiused on the heel so it doesn't leave (as sharp) markings in the panel.



I've been shown various methods as well, including trapping the opening (forming an "M") and I have also hammered from the mouth of the tuck inward. What I have found is that hammering from the mouth inward, you are more likely to fold over and cause a wrinkle in the metal than if working outward. I notice in the video Kerry posted that the mouth tends to open up a bit toward the end. This has been my experience as well. In studying the video I took of Peter's hammering method again, it appears he is flattening as he works his way outward, but also is hammering in from the sides on occasion to keep the tuck up (and together) where it belongs at the mouth for a more effective tuck. I tend to need the crutch of having a hollow in a stump to help hold the tuck from opening. Since Peter was hammering a flange (flat) area, this was not an option, so perhaps the hammering method of coming in from the sides occasionally helps to keep the tuck from opening.


Just thinking out loud here, and still learning.
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