#11
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Maybe I could do the math, but what thickness hardwood board did you start with? Nice 140 in backgroud(had a 120 for 42 years).
Great project. Thanks - Phil
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Phil |
#12
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"Maybe I could do the math, but what thickness hardwood board did you start with?"Sorry Phil,I forgot to include the thickness .The disc are cut from a piece of "1x6 " maple,but the actual measurements are .750 inch thick x 5.5 inch wide. Goofy American system for wood sizes.
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Robert |
#13
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My grinder is a fixed rpm. The maple block I used was thicker, about 1 1/2" so I'm able to use the stock nut.
B
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Bill Tromblay "A sign of a good machinist, is one who can fix his F$@& Ups" My mentor and friend, Gil Zietz Micro Metric Machine. |
#14
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I suggest taking steps to guard against the possibility of shrapnel caused by splitting along the grain. Make the disk from plywood or from two 3/4 inch boards face glued at 90 degrees to each other.
Jerry Jackson San Antonio |
#15
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Jerry safety is always a concern of mine.When I made my first disc I did not know what to expect so the first time it was used I suited up with a lot of layers of clothes ,face shields and my winter coat just to try it out.I leaned on it hard with no issues.I have wore out several of these discs .I know of stainless steel shrinking disc coming apart due to fractures so the same safety concerns are there also.Inspect your tools before using them is good advise. One of the things I noticed and also like about this wood disc besides not marring up your panel is what it is far less noisy than the shrill sound that a stainless disc makes.As I stated use a good piece of hardwood wood with no knots or splits.
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Robert |
#16
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Has anybody use wood disk on 2024t3?
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Randy |
#17
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That is slick Robert.
I had a cutoff from some really nice hardwood plywood so I made one up. I stepped with the Forstner bits for the nut and then from the back for a washer. I had cut it on the bandsaw fairly accurately so it spun with just a little vibration. I shaped it to run true on the belt sander by turning against the belt direction. IMG_20190601_161147.jpg IMG_20190601_174431.jpg IMG_20190601_173213.jpg Your correct about the lower noise, and no surface marking. Thanks.
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Eugene |
#18
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Hi Robert,
You have presented a good technique using the wood disc instead of the metal ones - which make much noise and mark the panels so badly - and which also separate and then go rolling around the shop or neighborhood. Not a fan of the metal ones for the above reasons. One thought: temps seem to be 500F to 650F so annealing happens at the shrink point. What do you do with the softness in your panel? ps - I would NOT use this or any heating method above 300F on 2024T3, as it takes the material below requisite strength.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#19
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Excellent idea - very useful, thanks for sharing.
Just a thought... has anyone tried it on steel? I'm thinking just for very small shrinks on large panels such as bonnets/doors etc. as a final finish without the usual marking that you get from stainless discs. Matt |
#20
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Matt, I tested my disc on the 24 gauge I use for the Willys and it worked great. I'll take a shot of the sample when I get to the shop this morning.
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Eugene |
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