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  #11  
Old 08-04-2014, 08:26 AM
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Joe Hartson Joe Hartson is offline
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Robert, here is a picture of a set of bead roller die that you can do offset with. With a movable shaft in and out you can adjust the amount of offset.

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  #12  
Old 08-04-2014, 08:49 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Hi Joe,
Sorry to hijack! but I can't seem to picture in my head on what sort of profile that die will give, the way I'm thinking, it looks it give a slight angular to edge profile and another question! how does moving the shaft in or out alter the off-set.
Sorry for the dumb questions as I only have a few of the standard dies (Step, Round and a tipping set) my machine has fixed shaft, but I can shim it slightly.
Looking to do a lot more with my bead roller, but need to find someone who has a better supply of different dies without costing the earth.

Cheers John
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  #13  
Old 08-04-2014, 10:48 AM
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Joe, I believe I have some similar dies.... Thanks much!
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  #14  
Old 08-04-2014, 11:44 AM
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http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/ma...FWoR7Aoda2cAXg

I saw in Cass's postings I think a come along or cable puller pulling a
strip of material through a set of dies.
Exiting the dies was the desired extruded shape

Take a strip of say 18 gage braze a hook on the end then
pull through.

Ron
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  #15  
Old 08-04-2014, 11:47 AM
Ron Naida Ron Naida is online now
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Forgot to mention when I neck down tubing in a press I use
way lube as a lubricant.
Probably a good lube also for pulling.

Ron
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  #16  
Old 08-24-2014, 08:46 PM
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Just as a follow up to this drip rail, the dies I used in the original attempt had about a .07 offset. I didn't want to alter their size as they get used once in a blue moon for sheet metal offset, like I did for the 55 Chevy truck windshield panel.. So I decided to make another set, and based on the dimensional difference between the good sample and the trial piece, it looked like I needed to add about .04 to the offset, or .110 total. So here are the new dies...





I again used the "backstop" die, and had to go back and trim a bit more off the width of the lower die to get the drip rail height correct.







Then the "backstop" die was radiused to use with the skateboard wheel in providing the radius for the front face...





Then a few passes with the tipping die to fold up the front face...





The ends wanted to fold much more than the rest of the trial piece, so rather than continually readjust the tension, I sacrificed the first inch or so and just cut it off in the band saw.

Here is the outer portion formed, the height is about perfect, this is using die width and back stop to regulate dimension...



The offset also turned out much better. The sharp bend on mine wasn't quite as tight together, but we'll see what the Jeep guys say to this version.....





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Old 08-28-2014, 05:21 AM
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Hi Rob, the rail is turning out pretty good, good use of your lathe to knock up some dies to suit your needs..................Looks like I now need to buy a lathe, to start fabricating more bits.

Cheers John
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  #18  
Old 08-28-2014, 07:02 AM
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Thanks John. Yeah, the lathe is one of those tools that doesn't seem to be used for a year but when you need one, you need one. I do have some more fine tuning to do on the design at this point, the "vee" section is slightly wider in my version........





Looking at this roof section, it appears that this flaw may interfere with snapping on the drip rail cover, so I do have some more tweaks to the tooling/design, but so far real pleased with how it is turning out.

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Old 08-31-2014, 10:55 PM
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I did another sample of drip rail to try and tighten up the bottom "vee". Sample flanged as before...



....and radius added to the front face...



Before I had used the sharp tipping die at the crease adjacent to the radius flange only, and in an attempt to keep the vee tighter this time, I also flipped the piece over and used the sharp tipping wheel on the back side. Once the flange was tipped, I also used the tipping wheel (with backstop) to mark the other two folds.. Then the obtuse angle was folded using the tipping wheel, the 90 was folded using a gooseneck die in the press brake. The vee is a bit tighter than before, and now before going any further, I have to borrow some of the stainless cover to make sure that part fits...

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  #20  
Old 04-11-2018, 07:28 AM
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A continuing follow up to this drip rail fabrication, what has shown to be my nemesis in making an accurate replacement. What I have experienced was that forming a drip rail with the bead roller tends to distort in the process of rolling through where the part doesn't remain straight lengthwise. Some of the pictures above show a slight arc gets added to length of the part. Just to clarify where this is situated, this is welded along the outside of the A-pillar on the full size Jeep Cherokee, with the tail comprising part of the windshield opening.








After looking at some of Steve Hamilton's Pullmax dies this past week at Redneck Roundup, I think eliminating the deformity can be best addressed by making dies for the Lennox (Pullmax). Here's what we started with, a section of 18 gauge (to match OEM) and folded the lip that will form the outside face of the drip rail..





Next, a die is used to add the joggle seen at the bottom, and a clamped-on guide prevents the flange from wanting to move skyward.








Next operation is to add the slight bit of radius to the front face of the drip rail. Here's our die configuration for this step..





Shown here with the original cross-section piece...






....to be continued.
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