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Old 02-05-2016, 08:23 PM
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MotoMike43 MotoMike43 is offline
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Default Pattern making video I did with Eastwood

Check out the video I did recently with Eastwood about the basics of making a paper pattern when shaping sheet metal. It features the Handmade fenders I just did. Making an acurate paper pattern of the original part, the 'Buck' or the opposing part you need to create is the first step to shapping an accurate panel. PLEASE SHARE! and check out my shop page for more...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5q0IJR7lvV0
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Old 02-06-2016, 10:36 AM
custommetal custommetal is offline
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Thanx for the link. Great tip on the carpenters pencil. Will be using that soon.. Easy to understand video, well done. Is there a follow up especially on the shrinking of the radiused sections or is it simply heat/shrink as you go?

George
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Old 02-06-2016, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by custommetal View Post
Thanx for the link. Great tip on the carpenters pencil. Will be using that soon.. Easy to understand video, well done. Is there a follow up especially on the shrinking of the radiused sections or is it simply heat/shrink as you go?

George
There will not be a direct follow up to this video. But there will be more videos from me soon. These fenders are long finished already. In fact they were both finished before the video was made.

I am a power hammer guy so I use thumbnail shrink for just about everything. If I did not have that option i would have built the panel with more stretch then shrink. I still would have to shrink the edges and it would have been with stump shrinking and with crushing the wrinkled edges created from blocking up the stretch over a bag or hardwood. Non of this would have been fun with 18g steel though
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Old 02-06-2016, 01:45 PM
scotsman scotsman is offline
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great item thanks for sharing , the best way to make a panel copy

for the radius sweeps on the corners i would have used strips of metal hammered on the out side edge untill they formed the correct curve to the panel then marked on the pattern the hight to use them. i fined the redius gauges are a bit short on longer sweeps . hope this makes sence

look forward to seeing more.
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Old 02-06-2016, 03:01 PM
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MotoMike43 MotoMike43 is offline
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great item thanks for sharing , the best way to make a panel copy

for the radius sweeps on the corners i would have used strips of metal hammered on the out side edge untill they formed the correct curve to the panel then marked on the pattern the hight to use them. i fined the redius gauges are a bit short on longer sweeps . hope this makes sence

look forward to seeing more.
Yes you are correct. Once you start making your actual panel you need to make a grid of long profile gauges to check your shape unless you build a Buck. Profile gauges and a flexible tape pattern is the best way to build a panel without a Buck. But... When making your paper pattern you have to use a radius gauge to lay out the 'light lines'. It is 100% important that your light line hits the bulls eye when you pull your shrink in. Its the ONLY way to make a perfect reflection once painted. (unless you plan on using body filler). You have to know the dead on exact spot your shrink depth has to hit. You cant miss that mark. If 1 shrink is 1/8" shorter or longer then the one next to it your panel will never be perfect. The light lines are the most important part to making a panel and the part that takes the longest to get good at. I would say that light lines is the hardest part of metalshaping. Most people think its Reverse curves... But I would say most people dont know or have never heard of light lines / understand what it really means.
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Old 02-06-2016, 03:26 PM
dwmh dwmh is offline
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Great video Mike, well explained.

Regards
Dave
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Old 02-06-2016, 07:21 PM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Hi Mike nice work on the fenders
Great video, well explained!
Peter
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Old 02-06-2016, 10:27 PM
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Very clear explanation, nice presentation
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Old 02-07-2016, 02:20 AM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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Mike, nice professionally done video. I do the paper patterns with the magnets and fingers cut just like you do but never would use a radius gauge. Once I have the paper fingers lying flat on the panel I dust coat them with fast drying black Krylon. Yes, all my magnets do have many coats of Krylon on them. When I lay my paper pattern on the sheet I can tell by the un-painted parts of the fingers how deep to pull the shrinks plus the width of the un-painted paper gives you a pretty good idea of how much to shrink & where. I mark ¾” out from where the un-painted portion of the finger stops because I learned at Scott Knight’s class that thumb nail dies will shrink ¾” out in front of where you stop going into the panel.

I also mark blank cutting lines with pin-striping tape and sometimes even use flexible magnetic guides for pin-stripers but again I just dust coat them with dark Krylon. I only need the accuracy of a scribe line when I’m joining 2 panels together. ~ John Buchtenkirch
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Old 02-07-2016, 10:04 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Paper patterns have a useful accuracy of .010” on panels that have not had their surface areas manipulated, at least for me.

In my experience, using paper of certain weights has advantages in particular operations. Like re-skinning the dihedral intersecting panels of F1 wings, for instance It’s all bonded structure of .012” 2024T3 contact-adhesed onto a molded rigid foam core with a titanium inner structure. Light as a bag of chips and incredibly strong. The fits have to be dead on because you're bonding on a mirror finish and you have to get it right the first time because of the dang contact adhesive. (icon of sweating bullets here.) Making accurate paper patterns and cutting the panels to the half-whisker are absolutely de rigeur.

Good clear film of the essential standards, Mike.
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