#11
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tanks
http://allmetalshaping.com/album.php?albumid=1007
Process is in the album above. A couple of other tanks also. http://allmetalshaping.com/album.php?albumid=429 Ron
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Ron |
#12
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Hi,
I saw from your post that you have a Trumpf machine, this might help with your "X" bead. https://youtu.be/CSD_RUh6bMg I use my router and cut the "X" in two pieces of MDF. With a delrin plastic punch, it follows the slot in the MDF and formed in the shape. I use this process for forming the cross X in the top of Aluminum Waco aircraft battery boxes. If your material is large in size, take several self tapping screws and screw the upper MDF, thru your part, into the lower MDF. Once formed, weld the holes shut and planish them smooth. Bill
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Bill Tromblay "A sign of a good machinist, is one who can fix his F$@& Ups" My mentor and friend, Gil Zietz Micro Metric Machine. |
#13
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Bill, thanks for sharing that. Biggest thing I learned in doing those MDF sandwiches is to engage the punch with a gradual “plunge” while moving the panel. A straight down and then move sometimes shows a bit more stretch around the initial punch where you can see where you started.
Here’s another video doing crossed lines.... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KCIv27b4dPs
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#14
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Good videos. I'm thinking its probably the smart thing to do is to remake the end plates patterns thick enough steel to ball mill the X pattern in them, then clamps and make both the X feature and the perimeter flange at the same time without removing the panel from patter to pattern. bugger.
What thickness should I be making this from? I planned on 18ga but should it be 20? The ring that the sending unit plate attaches to is .100, thick enough for 10-32 screw threads and here is the test dimple it'll go into: 001.jpg I don't have the ID cut, it'll be large enough for the float etc. Here's a pic of the internal baffles tack welded. The ribs matchup to where the gas tank straps cinch down: 002.jpg
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oj higgins |
#15
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OJ, I've made a lot of tanks over the decades ... never seen 18ga 'cept for over-the-road Trucks - KW, Pete, Bulldog.... Auto tanks are 20ga, with a few in 22ga. All have been terne - except for the 304 stainless versions of the terne, asked for by customers, or by customers' mechanics. Painted up, they all looked the same.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#16
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Quote:
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AC Button II http://CarolinaSculptureStudio.com https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzSYaYdis55gE-vqifzjA6A Carolina Sculpture Studio Channel |
#17
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I beaded my bomber style seats in the Pullmax. Out of 5052. I would think you could do steel ends in the same fashion.
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Ron |
#18
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I seem to find myself making a good number of custom fuel tanks. Since I am unable to purchase terne plate, I tin coat my own sheets of 19 gauge steel. I recently made a tank for a Hudson and a 356 pre-A Porsche. Both required extensive beading on the Pullmax. I use MDF or in the case of the Hudson, aluminum plate as my top and bottom guides for the beads. I run screws through to sandwich the panel between the plates to hold everything tight. A quick TIG plug weld eliminates the holes when completed. This process is also used on the many aluminum tanks that I have made. As I have not had the time to experiment with posting pictures on this sight, I can direct you to my website that has the pictures of the process. By chance, my wife posted the Hudson today.
Rick www.richardmullincoachbuilding.com
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Rick |
#19
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I believe it is used in standing seam roofing.
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oj higgins |
#20
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Quote:
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oj higgins |
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