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  #11  
Old 08-18-2017, 07:06 AM
Dave K. Dave K. is offline
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Wow Mike I would love to hang out and work with you! I am in the same situation as I work alone like an ogre! haha

Thanks!
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  #12  
Old 08-18-2017, 08:01 AM
Mike Rouse Mike Rouse is offline
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This is just a suggestion. You may find it useful to make a profile of yourself with pivot points at the joints. This will help size the full size drawing of the car may help to have a front profile too

Mike
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  #13  
Old 08-18-2017, 08:19 AM
Dave K. Dave K. is offline
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Default Planning info for my fellow beginners

About a year ago, I started doing research on how to build the car I wanted. Many ideas were bounced around and I finally decided on a motorcycle powered car. At first, I thought the project was going to be rather inexpensive, like normal I was wrong.

I first went to my local Harley Davidson and took measurements off several of their motorcycles and trikes. The key measurement was from the front of the engine to the center of the rear sprocket. I can't find my notebook at the moment but it was around 40" give or take.

The hub to hub width of the Rear end is 56" and the independent front suspension is also 56". With wheel spacing we should be just at 58" width, with no more than 60" width maximum. Total length of car is an estimated 13 feet (156") maximum with a target height of 36". Target weight 1500lbs, 200 hp.

Now to put these numbers into perspective I found specs for the Maserati and Porsche (I am unable to verify these numbers to a scientific level, so they are for reference level only).

Maserati:
Front Track: 49.2 inches
Rear Track : 47.2 inches
Length : 153" (12.75')
Width : 57"
Height : 38.6" (I'm assuming to windshield)
inline 4 cylinder, 186 HP, 0-60 7.3 secs estimated weight: 1610lbs

Porsche:
Front Track: 50.8"
Rear Track : 49.2"
Length : 145.6" (12')
Width : 59.4"
Height : 38.6" (I'm assuming to windshield)
Boxer 4 cylinder, 148 hp, weight 1279lbs

So from a planning perspective, I feel confident that my estimations are reasonable. I will not know for certain until the car is built. The selection of materials will obviously affect weight, acceleration, and speed. i.e. carbon fiber vs. mild steel. I will likely be using 4130 chromoly for the chassis and aluminum for the structural support of the body, so for planning I feel confident that I have reasonable expectations. Actual construction may vary.

Also from my work with my other cars, I want ground clearance to be 5"-6". This will ensure that it doesn't scrap on slopes. For reference the 2016 Corvette has 3.7-4" of ground clearance.

This process helped me define the 3D space the car would occupy with out any other information available, so this was my starting point. For me this was a way to comprehend what I was dealing with. The challenge now is to put all of the necessary car pieces within that space, as was said to me, in an elegant way.

Thanks for your interest!
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Last edited by Dave K.; 08-18-2017 at 08:27 AM. Reason: adding additional information
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  #14  
Old 08-18-2017, 10:41 AM
Dave K. Dave K. is offline
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Default Chassis planning: IFS for beginners.

I just called Heidt's (I am not affiliated with them in any way), and ordered their Superide independent front suspension kit.

Experienced builders might just build a front end from scratch and may know how to set up front suspension geometry, I can understand it, but couldn't build it, nor would I want to try based on safety being top priority.

There are many commercially available suspension kits available, but I wanted a kit that was going to be the easiest for me to correctly design and build a chassis. Please see the enclosed picture. I purchased the Superide kit for a 28-31 Ford. There are two reasons: 28-31 Fords are lighter than other cars and the Superide cross member is all one piece. This means that I will not need to weld in the upper A arm/shock mount structure as the crossmember incorporates that structure. I believe, and could be wrong, that this will cut down my chances of making mistakes. I spent many hours searching the best possible solution. Since the crossmember has the upper A arm structure, I just have to make sure that it is square to the frame and congruent with the rear end.

In studying this process, I also studied many different cars and how their chassis were made and the difficulties I would have if I built each. I know that I will have to solve some problems with mounting the rear end and engine (for alignment and longevity). I also had to determine how I was going to develop the structure for doors, trunk, and hood. At least for now, I will be shaping the body without doors (using a low sweeping body line) and creating front end and rear end clamshells that flip up. This may change but that is the plan now. Each possible solution had its pros and cons, and I am trying to avoid compounding problems where possible. Again, safety for this build is the first priority over everything else.

Thanks!

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Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 08-19-2017 at 08:16 AM.
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  #15  
Old 08-18-2017, 11:53 AM
Dave K. Dave K. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Rouse View Post
This is just a suggestion. You may find it useful to make a profile of yourself with pivot points at the joints. This will help size the full size drawing of the car may help to have a front profile too

Mike

Hey Mike great suggestion, but I am not sure if I fully understand. What do you mean with "pivot points at the joints". Do you have a picture example? Thank you very much, I am still learning, so I ask so I can learn!
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  #16  
Old 08-18-2017, 02:29 PM
bobadame bobadame is offline
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He's referring to something like the dummy standing in front of the car in post number 5 of this thread. The pivot points are the dark dots at the center of the skeletal joints. What is the wheel base of your car?
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  #17  
Old 08-18-2017, 03:01 PM
Dave K. Dave K. is offline
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Bob, Thank you, you taught me something!

The estimated wheelbase is at 96".
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  #18  
Old 08-18-2017, 03:56 PM
Mike Rouse Mike Rouse is offline
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Dave the pivot points are to represent your body joints so you can simulate arm and leg movement. Use it to check your sitting position and other movements you don't wanttobuild a car that you can't fit in or operate it.

Mike
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  #19  
Old 08-18-2017, 05:12 PM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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This is an older book compared to some but I like it a lot. Anatomy for Interior Designers by Julius Panero.

http://https://www.amazon.com/Anatom.../dp/0823070263

It's a good reference for spatial relations considerations when designing any space and related use in terms of the human body.
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  #20  
Old 08-18-2017, 05:31 PM
Dave K. Dave K. is offline
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AC Thank you, I will buy it, read it, then quiz you later! haha Just kidding and thanks!
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