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  #1381  
Old 06-25-2020, 05:24 AM
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Spare Willys bonnet was getting in the way and finally had everything I needed to use it for an awning over the garage side door. With winter here it will stop the rain from blowing in.

The local powder coaters are closing down and I happen to ask if he had any old headers for a project I had planned. He gave me these for free as someone had cut off one of the primaries. I had a few sets of 80 series Land Cruiser ARB bullbar tubes under the house that I thought I could make a replacement for it.


The new primary I made is on the left and think it blends in well enough. I also cut off all threaded bosses and welded up the holes that were for the water cooling as these were from a drag boat. Turns out a Dodge R5P7 NASCAR engine powered one! So still fits the theme of 'keeping it in the Mopar family'.


I made these mounting flanges up that block off the tubes to stop spiders, wasps, hornets etc making a home in them. I welded in a nut where the pipes merge to bolt through the wall of the garage.


Been knocking all the dents out of it even though it was actually straight on top to begin with! But the dents that had been filled in times past showed up underneath, so couldn't live with that. This was the best bonnet of the three that I had from the Willys Trucks and rust free too, except for some surface rust where the factory hadn't painted above the braces. Did a mockup and like what I see. Was very tempted to do a 'ratrod' or 'patina' look and call it done.


Got the dents out and have it in primer. Original plan was to go gray to match the existing roofing, but looks a bit top heavy. So will go with the cream the the bonnet was anyway.
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  #1382  
Old 06-25-2020, 05:47 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is online now
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Marcus it is a great idea. Put part of the front mask in front as an ornament or something ..... Max up to the same height of the bonnet bend.
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  #1383  
Old 06-25-2020, 07:18 AM
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I like it!
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  #1384  
Old 06-27-2020, 06:27 AM
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Even with the sun out, we were only getting up to minimum spraying temperature. So lamps from the front and a blow heater from behind to get the steel warm enough. Paint warmed in hot water as well.


I reinforced the garage wall with leftover hat channel from when I built the garage originally. Above the door will have a pulling force and the end of headers have a compressive force.


The bonnet itself bolted to a set of angle brackets through the original hinge mounts. Only the block off/mounting brackets for the headers were added which act as bracing. The bonnet is still stock except I removed the safety latch and spring. Even the original ornament is back in position.


To keep the door from swinging around in the breeze, I have just used a simple pad bolt. There is a clear stick on bumper on the header tube as well as one behind the pad bolt on the flange.


All finished up and pleased about how it turned out. Been planning it for nearly 10 years, but waited until I knew I didn't mess up welding the wider bonnet together on the Willys first, and then to get some suitable headers that were cheap enough. Was worth the wait as these were free!


In the end the only thing I paid for was the paint. Might just be able to make out the Willys 'looking on' in the background.
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  #1385  
Old 06-27-2020, 07:16 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is online now
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Marcus, it looks good. Good storage. One day in the distant future, it will be useful to someone. I know of several monuments that were above the gate or in front of the company and which have already been renovated .....
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  #1386  
Old 06-27-2020, 08:12 AM
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I sure like the way you think, Marcus!
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  #1387  
Old 06-27-2020, 05:46 PM
steve.murphy steve.murphy is offline
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Looks good, maybe add a dome light?
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  #1388  
Old 06-28-2020, 04:26 AM
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Thanks for the comments.
If it was over a door to the house I think a porch light under it would look great. I have this area flood lit though for when I am still grinding and cutting things out after dark, so don't need another light here.
I minimized any changes to the bonnet itself just in case it ever has to return to duty as what it was intended for originally. Hopefully not to repair mine!
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  #1389  
Old 06-28-2020, 04:28 AM
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I been trying different things like baby oil and trim restores etc. to keep where I have removed all the plastic protrusions the same as the surrounding areas. Like the first runner which has never been touched. But after awhile they all fade again.


After watching many youtube videos and reading forum posts on it with people using everything from peanut butter to heat guns, nothing lasts for long or it makes them brittle. I saw good reports though from an Australian product that is actually a die like printers ink that I will give a go. https://youtu.be/YmkazRFrV_s


Pretty clear to see that I have done the first two runners. You use only a few drops to load the foam brush each time.


Done them all now and you have to leave it for 24 hours while it dries and you must not allow it to get wet.


Was pretty cold so was still a bit left wet the next day so rubbed it with a cloth to remove the excess which dulled it down back to a stock look. Looks patchy in the photo but that is just from the lighting. I also used it on my Jeep which had some graying plastic and works really well there just like the video. Seems better on the textured surfaces. I'll report back over time to see how it holds up.
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  #1390  
Old 06-28-2020, 07:14 PM
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I was was very fortunate that I was given a set of stock fuel rails from a 6.1 SRT HEMI engine as they had changed them for a billet pair from a fellow Ozrodder member Choco. I did a trial fit and the only thing I needed to do was alter the bend an the end of left one in the picture. It was at 90* like the other side originally. Just placed it in a vice with soft jaws and carefully straighted out the bend as shown.


They didn't come with the crossover fuel line so I cut mine off just each side of the barb. Even after softening it carefully with a heat gun, I couldn't pull it off the old rails. But my line was longer than I needed anyway so no problem. The line is nylon inside with a rubber feeling coating. I had to put the ends in a jug with the water boiling and quickly push it onto the barb that I had lubed with a bit of rubber grease. Held the rail in the vice so I could use both hands to force it on all the way. I added some single ear stainless hose clamps as well even though the factory didn't have them originally.


Here you can see why I had to bend the end a bit so the line can pass by the end of the intake runner.


The other side was fine and cleared. I had to put the whole line back into the boiling water to get it the flow around back of the intake as it is very stiff cold.


So no crossover line anymore. I also got my coil covers back from the powder coaters and had them done in a Mystic Silver Hammer Tone. I didn't want to look like I was pretending to have an early HEMI, so this gives it a modern twist and has both the silver and black colours they came in.


The hammer tone also hides the rust pitting that was left too and this colour choice allows me to leave the intake unpainted as well. Hence why the recent effort into making them look alright without paint. The chrome rails are subtle enough not to be in your face and fit with the stainless acorn nuts and screws that hold the covers in place.
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