#771
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I just couldn't get my head in the game today so I puttered around with some small stuff. I recut the window template along the tape line and it looks like it's good.
Next, I wanted to finish the trim on the right side. I wasn't happy with the point at the front end of the rear spear so I chopped off the tapered point and made a new piece that rolls into the body where the fender meets it. I like this much more than the previous attempt. I finished making all the mounting tabs and welded them in along with the mounting studs. I spent some time getting them bent to fit tight against the body panels. I won't polish them until all the fabricating work is done. They look good, all aligned, straight
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. Last edited by Jack 1957; 11-11-2017 at 08:18 PM. |
#772
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OK, it's time to let this gigantic hood down. The tape lines are 2" wide for the drop. I will also be cutting the depression running down the center of the hood where the chrome strip and hood ornament were. First thing to do is align the fenders as near perfect as possible. Then align the hood to the fenders. Once that is done, tack the hood to the fenders and cut. The area being removed was carefully located to stay out of any radiused areas. You can avoid a lot of extra work if you do this. I have a little over 2" between the two curves on the hood so I placed the cut there.
Before going any further mark some reference lines equal distance from the center. One on each side. Make sure they are beyond where you will be cutting. Once the center strip is cut out, you can use these lines to find the center again. I'll be cutting a 1" strip out of the center because of the trim depression.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#773
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I used some jacks and shims to locate the right half of the hood and clamped it in place. When I got everything where I wanted it, I tacked it in.
Next I did the left side. Same routine as the right. Notice there's no pinch or slitting required. That's a result of locating the cuts in the best spot in an effort to get the best fit. You can't always get this good of a fit in a chop or section job, but you can minimize the mismatch with a little planning. If I had not needed to cut the one inch strip out of the center, I would have been able to stretch the edges of the upper part of the hood in the english wheel to get them to lay down and hit the edges of the lower half. Next, I started making the filler strip to run down the center of the hood. I took a strip of steel, ran it through the wheel to get some shape while pulling down to get the bend in front. I needed to shrink the edges a little up front, then I matched up the peak that's in the original by using the bead roller and a PU lower wheel. The hood fits the rest of the car now.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#774
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So much better looking Jack. Thanks for showing the way you are doing this as every technique is useful to know.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#775
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That looks a lot better.
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#776
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Giday Jack,
I was just comparing this last Photo to the Photo of your lowly roller on the first page, very nice work mate, starting to look sleek now.
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Leigh, Stop moving so fast, you're creating a breeze. |
#777
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Jack you hit the belt line on the door perfect! that looks great. I was really looking forward to seeing you do this and you did not disappoint!
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Scott |
#778
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Jack
Every time I read your thread I come away amazed.
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Dave Bradbury |
#779
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Next, I made the filler strip for the center of the hood. I used the bead roller with a 90 degree edge and a PU lower. As expected the process distorted the sheet. Don't try to tack a part like this in and pull it down to meet the adjacent panel. Especially in a wide flat, or low crown panel like this. It will end up as a twisted, distorted unsalvageable mess. I'm not sure I can properly explain why this happens but I'll try. There is no stretching or shrinking happening when you do a peak like this. It is a bend. If you look at this piece from the end, the cross section, you see a gradual slope on each side rising to a peak in the center. This slope begins about one third of the way in from the outer edges. Now, if this was made by stretching the metal, there would be no distortion along the outer edges. But, since the process is a bend rather than stretch, the metal in the middle has been moved to a position where it takes up less area width wise. The remedy is to lightly shrink the outer edges evenly on each outer edge so that they also take up less area. You will see the piece lay down easily. After that I needed to run the strip upside down through the English wheel to flatten out the V shape a little so it matched the surrounding metal on the hood a little better.
After a little more work I got it to lay flat and follow the contour of the hood skin. In this picture the strip is just laying on the hood. No clamps, no tacks. Tacked in and looking good. I think at this point I need to weld in a temporary frame along the bottom of the hood across the back so I can take the hood off the car. I need to weld it up on the bench so I can do some hammer and dolly work while I'm welding and I can't get to the backside while it's on the car.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. Last edited by Jack 1957; 11-14-2017 at 10:31 PM. |
#780
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Looking really good there Jack.
When you say you are using a PU lower wheel, I take it is a soft wheel like a skateboard wheel like I would use in this situation?
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
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