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Aluminum hood, can't get to backside
Working on a car where I need to repaint the hood. Hood is aluminum, has 2 small dents (size of dime) in it which I don't have access to backside due to bracing.
Anybody have any suggestion on how I can get these out? Will my shrinking disc do it? Propane torch/rapid cooling?
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Jeffrey Scott Last edited by ty1295; 03-05-2015 at 02:46 PM. |
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can you slip a spoon or other dolly like object behind the bracing?
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Results = (Effort X Determination2) + Time |
#3
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I haven't found any access to do that yet. I am not totally against drilling a hole in bracing though if that is the only way.
Be working on it more this weekend, with goal to get it painted. Hoping to not do the normal "body shop" job on it, even though this will be just a driver. The dent is in area circled in blue.
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Jeffrey Scott Last edited by ty1295; 03-05-2015 at 02:08 PM. |
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If it is a modern alum. hood like a late 90's ford truck the alum is hardened something other than 3003 . It cant be fixed if you hammer it it will just make it worse . a lot of new cars are like that .
James |
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Depending on the dept of your dent, u can use a mapp gas burner and heat the dent from the outside tot the inside(ideal is 150°C. or more if needed) then the dent should come up, if so you take a sweet file(very fine tooth) and without pushing, just sliding over the dent until it's below 40 °C. Have a look at it if it came up or how much it came up.And repaet this process until level.
If it pulls down at heating for the first time , you have to have a way to push it up, so maybe make a small hole behind . Also leave the paint on the bonnet as long as possible,you can use this as a temp guide. If the paint starts getting a little different colour , it means you that it's starting to burn and your around 180 °C. This method is written by manufacturers Hope this helps!
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Nico |
#6
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Quote:
Jeffrey I am afraid none of the above will help Depending on the size of the dents you could try a very strong glue. Glue a series of ''studs'' on the panel then use a normal panel beating file and lie it flat over the dent , then use a pair of side cutters and by using a lever motion pull the stud up to suit and the dent should lift out Peter PS when finish simply grind the stud off......
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P.Tommasini Metalshaping tools and dvds www.handbuilt.net.au Metalshaping clip on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg Making Monaro Quarter panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM |
#7
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Peter; agree with your repair direction. This is the way Paintless Dent Repair pro's do minor collision and hail dent repairs when there is no access to the backside. They can do some amazing repairs without touching the paint.
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Barry aka "Grigger" |
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What would be a "very strong glue" for this purpose? Epoxy?
Is it possible to do this repair and leave the paint intact? Or is this a repair for bare metal only? Dave Cameron P.S.: Sorry, Barry has implied it is done. I'd like to know how. Last edited by cameron; 03-06-2015 at 02:29 PM. |
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A good PDR guy can work miracles. Our guy uses hot glue and pulls up a larger area then taps all the highs back down leaving the low corrected. I've not seen him do aluminum though. The stuff I've seen done I'd have only imagined witchcraft would have worked.
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Ray R |
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Cameron;
I am not aware of any trade names for the glue that the PDR boys use, but I do know they attach a plastic peg, looks somewhat like a honey dipper, to the painted surface of the panel. The glue is released I believe with acetone. Does not mar the painted surface. They won't guarantee any success on a panel that's been re-painted. Mechanical / chemical adhesion is not as great as factory paint. I've watched guys pull hail damage out on late model Mercedes Benz aluminum panels and the only areas where the hail dent couldn't be completely pulled out was on the very edge of a sun roof panel opening. Almost imperceptable residual damage left behind. I have been dealing through our Corporate head office trying to find out the type of aluminum MB uses on their vehicles to no avail. MB is pretty tight lipped on divulging that secret. Hail PDR is somewhat different from Collision PDR but the principles are the same. The PDR boys actually know how to do "body work". They put the metal back to where it was formed. If you send me a PM I will contact one of the PDR guys I deal with and find a trade name for the glue in Ontario. I don't think there are any big secrets to it, more technique than anything.
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Barry aka "Grigger" |
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